good evening. hope you had as much as a wonderful day as i did. finally got to surf a real session since my eye surgery. went out to kaisers and the waves were pretty fun. 2′ barrels in the inside bowl. my eye is still sensitive and red but i think i can see better than i use to be able to. right after i caught my first wave, i felt like a kid again… can’t wait to surf again tomorrow….

ok, most of my friends are younger than me. so i’m the old school guy. but not today. i felt young again so i started acting young. i got this look from garut.. what’s up homies…[:?????$B!x(B???:]

i keep on telling my japanese friends not to stand up on the reef. i’ve been telling them over and over for years and years. but today, i wish somebody told me the same thing. i stood up on the reef and i’m paying for it now….

and last, the colors of hawaii. have a wonderful evening…
**by the way, the only japanese surfer left in the sunset pro is izuki tanaka. he’s in the 4th round that should wrap up tomorrow….

heroin is a big problem in this world. people are doing it on the
streets now days. what do you tell a kid if they saw this while
walking down the street? drugs wa abunai. don’t do it!!!!

good morning. 6:15am and still some solid surf on the north shore. nobody out at lani’s or pipe because it’s kind of ugly. trades are back and pretty strong. i surfed diamond head yesterday evening. it was so fun and felt so good standing up again. i’m going surfing again today. waves are small in town but super clean. can’t wait. have a nice day…

meet another member of our awesome indo boat trip. this is Al Ah Nee from hawaii. al’s pretty much hard core as they come. the first guy in the water all the time, and always waiting patiently for the best waves. i met al last year on a red sea adventure trip to bali. all al goes on these trips is to surf, surf, and surf. and he surfs, surfs, and surfs. it’s good to see somebody so stoked as he is on surfing. al is also the inventor of the sunscreen roller. why ask somebody to help you when you can do it for yourself? al takes a paint roller out of his bag, applies the sunscreen…..

and rolls it on himself. wait al, you missed a spot….

how smart is that? he should get a patent on that. what a great idea… as for me, i prefer some soft loving hands putting on my sunscreen.. haha…

inventor al ah nee can also tube ride. this is probably tube number 50 on that trip. score!!! it was a pleasure traveling with you al. take care and can’t wait till our next red sea adventure….

and last, the xcel pro at sunset started yesterday in 6-8′ surf. it’s the official start of the 2008-09 north shore season. i’m getting excited…