good evening. what a nice day it was today. surfed kewalo’s this morning with chigasaki’s seiji-san from the hawaiian band ‘Ika’ika”. we checked bowls, there were 20+ guys out and the waves were waist high and inconsistent. no way… drove over to kewalo’s and as soon as we pulled up, we seen some shoulder high super fun waves with only 6 guys out. that was the call. while i was surfing i seen this 13 year old or so kid ripping. never seen him out there before so i started talking to him. he was super friendly and told me he’s from the west side. i told him that the waves weren’t that good today compared to what we’ve been getting. then you know what he told me? he said “but this is better than nothing”….. gosh, i was surprised. what a good attitude.. that made me really happy and made me enjoy surfing small waves a lot more than i have been. seen yukiko out too. she’s going to japan this year to do the jpsa contests. watch out girls, yukiko rips…. while i was surfing, i was looking out at the dive boats passing by. made me want to dive. and that’s what i’ll be doing tomorrow…..

brandon called me the other day because he seen a big wild boar coming around. he told me to meet him up in the mountain because he had a feeling it was coming back. i hurried up there and as soon as i pulled up, the big black boar was there. brandon got his bow out and i got my cell. phone video cam ready. i shot the whole thing in video. including the kill shot. it was pretty nuts. the boar ran down the mountain and died around 30 minutes away. brandon went to find it and couldn’t carry it back up by himself. it was too heavy. so i had to climb down the mountain with my nice shorts, nice shirt, and slippers to help him carry it back up. well, drag it back up. it was pretty nuts and as soon as i have some time, i will post it on a video. but it might not be for everybody…..

the boar looks pretty small in this photo but it weighed over 150lbs. brandon cut it up and the meat is ready to go into the smoker this weekend. i’ll tell you how the smoked pork tastes….. ummmm…..

as we were just going to delete some galleries off the go-naminori website, this order came in. when i pulled up the photo, i couldn’t believe it. i couldn’t believe that this guy almost lost his chance of buying one of the sickest big wave photos i’ve ever seen. this is taken on an outer reef in hawaii in january 2007. a photo like this is priceless. i would kick myself in the ass if i gave up an opportunity like this. better go check if you have a photo on there too or it will be deleted forever. so when your 80 years old and sitting on your porch drinking a beer with the boys, you have proof. and you’ll be the man for sure…. find it on GO-NAMINORI.COM.

and last, i know who this is…. i see her all the time at pipe. do you know her? haha… i’m just joking… i just think it’s a pretty cool body board chick photo. i borrowed it off the transworld surf website. have a great evening…

good morning. 6:15 aloha good friday. today is good friday and a holiday in hawaii. easter sunday coming up this weekend. hope to find some eggs. i remember when i was a kid, we use to go to my grandma’s house and color eggs. then she use to hide it in her back yard. my brothers and sister and i use to run in the yard and see who could find the most eggs. then eat it after. those were the days. i wish i can be a kid again. i might still act like one but i miss the kids things. like waiting for santa clause on christmas eve, and waiting for the tooth fairy when your first tooth fell out. ahhhhh….. anyway, the waves are pretty much flat everywhere today. don’t even see a wave breaking at pipe now. good for diving…. town came down too. the park’s knee/waist high with 12 guys and 2 stand up paddlers out. 5 guys out at rockpiles and 9 guys out at bowls. gosh, i want to surf so bad today but don’t know where to go. oh wait, i just seen a chest high set at bowls. i guess i know where i’m going today. see you in the water….

i was super hungry the other day and i forgot to bring money with me. i was looking for some free food and remembered where i could find some. that’s right, the leftovers from the lost crew. i ate some chili beans with mushrooms on the side. gosh, it was pretty good……

then after i ate all that food. i needed a place to rest so i headed in one of the tents and took a nap on the airplane seat. now when i see it on tv, i can say that i took a nap there…. haha…

and you better stay away or you will find yourself in jail. i went to city mill and bought this sign to put in the sand so nobody else comes. only i’m invited here and like to come here when i’m feeling a little “LOST”… get it? haha….
**by the way, been getting a lot of emails about the lost set and the lost dog. for some people, i guess it’s a big deal. but for me, i really don’t care because i don’t watch lost. never did and probably never will. why watch lost when i’m already lost? gosh, i’m feeling funny this morning.. haha….

i got my new passport!! what a relief!! last week, i was checking when it expires because i knew it was coming up. i’m going to indo this sept. and if i didn’t check it, i would have been stopped at dempasar airport for sure. why? because you need it to be valid 6 months after date of entry. well, i only had 5 months. being stopped in indo and then turned around would have sucked. so i had only 10 days to get a new passport before my journey starts. i was stressing out. then i found out that i could make an interview with a customs agent and get a passport in 2 days. and in 2 days i got my new electronic passport…. now i can travel around the world again for the next 10 years….
* i was checking out my old passport to check out the countries i’ve been in the last 9 years. australia, micronesia, south africa, singapore, philippines, korea, hong kong, fiji, samoa, tahiti, mexico, indonesia 6 times, and japan about 40 times. i guess i did my fair share of traveling. can’t wait to see where i’m going in the next 10 years. the journey continues. and now that i’m going to buy a new video camera, you’ll be able to join me. stay tuned….

***it was 8 years ago back in 2000 when i was invited on a boat trip to the mentawai islands, north sumatra, indonesia. surfing world photographer yoshiro nakayama, bali legend wayan ganti, and all the JPSA judges were on the boat. we had a freaking blast. i was the youngest one on the boat so i was kind of nervous being surrounded by these guys. but after a few bintangs, age didn’t mean anything. we all got along and had such a great time. surfing perfect waves with nobody around for miles and miles, eating fresh sashimi every night, the jokes, the sea snakes, and tons of ever lasting memories. back in 2000, there were only a few boats operating in the mentawai’s so we had the top spots pretty much to ourselves. it sure ain’t like that anymore so i’m glad i had my video camera and documented uncrowded mentawai’s…… this is part 1 of 4 so stay tuned for the rest…..