good morning. 7:15am thursday morning. waves on the north shore done…. looks super small up there and i think our winter season is pretty much over. gosh, how fast… town has some small waves. waist/chest high at bowls. got a bunch of surfers out there and quite a few out at the park. the tide is very very low so please be careful. i’m going surfing. got to practice for some small japan waves. i didn’t realize how much work and energy it takes to surf small waves. after i caught a long left yesterday at bowls, i was tired. i think i got spoiled taking off and just pulling into perfect barrels. that’s not good. well, it’s good but i better practice or i will look like a kook when i go to japan. haha… i’m going surfing. have a nice day….
can you believe that the iraq war was already going on for 5 years? and is there an end in sight?? no. no. no…. something is freaking wrong. what’s the problem? i want to know… after 600 billion dollars spent, almost 4,000 americans dead, how long more will this go on? i forgot why we’re even fighting and who we’re fighting. all i know is that young soldiers are dying everyday and when there’s no sign of the end, it’s pretty depressing. obama said that if he becomes president of the america, he’s pulling the troops out within 6 months. now you know who i’m voting for…..
**please watch this video of the fallen soldiers that have sacrificed their lives for the freedom we have. pretty touching. song by tim mcgraw called “if your reading this”….

good evening. gosh, it was such a beautiful day here in hawaii. kind of windy but the waves were super fun….

pulled up to bowls this morning and was greeted by this rainbow. and it was still there when we paddled out to the lineup. the waves were chest high and super fun. i got a couple sick long perfect lefts. thanks for those waves reid…. ended up surfing for almost 3 hours with banno-san and asaki-san. it was a great session….

after we got out of the water, we went to check out kalua…. here is asaki-san and banno-san petting kalua….

kalua loves when people cool him off with water. he was such a happy pig today. banno-san was telling me this morning that i have a good life. i agree. but i think kalua has a better life. eat, sleep, eat, sleep…. can’t beat that…

this was one of the last waves of the year for me on the north shore. kenji sent this to me and i think he took it last week sometime. gosh, from the worst winter ever in history to the best winter ever in history. i’m glad i was here for both sides because when the good came, good things happened…. thanks kenji for always taking my photo….. your the man….

wow, check out the new surfer girls magazine that just went on sale last week. kelia moniz cover shot!! yeah sis….
CLICK HERE FOR THE LINK TO SURFER GIRLS….

**and last, check out this funny photo i got in an email. what the heck is this??? if i had a chest like this, i wouldn’t mind because i would have a place to rest my chin to take a nap… free pillows…. haha….

good wednesday morning. 6:40am and it’s looking kind of windy out there. diamond head is blown out. good for wind surfing. north shore came down. pipe’s 1-2′ and only one guy out. looks like our dream winter season is coming to an end. town has a small south swell. shoulder high with a lot of guys out at bowls already. stronger winds on the way with more swells. still fun for surfing and that’s what i’m going to do today. surf….. have a safe and nice day….

when i left my house yesterday morning, this little dog was walking in the middle of the street. if i wasn’t watching the road, this little chihuahua would have been a brown pancake. i stopped my car and tried to catch it so i could take him to the humane society or something. he kept his distance and when i got close to grab him, he barked at me and almost attacked me. i actually got scared. see, when i was in 2nd grade, i teased this chihuahua that looked exactly like this one and it jumped up and bit through my lip. i had to get stitches and everything. so i kept my distance from this dog but at the same time, wanted to catch him so he wouldn’t get run over by a car….

i knocked on the house on the corner and the guy told me to leave the dog alone. he said that he always sneaks out of the house and roams around the streets. i thought that was pretty nuts because that’s pretty freaking dangerous. but what can i do? so i jumped back in my car and went along…. hope the owner of this dog takes better care of him….

and last, this is the big fish i caught on that mentawai boat trip video i posted the other day. i’m going on another boat trip to indo later this year and hope to spear one of these giants…. wish me luck….