Wednesday September25日 2024年

Typhoon 20 Japan/Philippine Surf…..

good evening. they ran round 1 at the x-cel pro today at sunset. the waves looked 3-5′ with shifty and windy conditions but they had to get it started. got a call from a friend saying the waves were shitty on the north shore so i jumped in at bowls. there were some 3′ sets and it was super fun. more solid south swells on the way. still waiting for a huge west swell to take the sand off the beach at pipeline. then i’m surfing backdoor everyday…. yeah!!!! until then, i’m saving my gas….

check out one of my favorite waves in the world. this was yesterday. shit, i missed out. this wave is so good. it’s actually similar to cloud 9 in a way. meaning, barrel after barrel. this is somewhere in japan and i ain’t saying where. want to thank kobayashi-san from selection surf shop for the pics….

i was actually jealous when i seen these photos. i know how good this place can get and i know how it feels getting barreled there. makes me want to jump on the next flight back to japan. surf and sushi. can’t beat that….

LOCALS RULE HERE!!!

and check out cloud 9 yesterday. typhoon 20 action. this is gerry from sagana getting tube time. gerry was super busy during the contest last month that he was complaining to me that he couldn’t get in the water. now that nobody’s around, he’s probably laughing in the barrel. go get um gerry. more barrels heading your way….
round x-cel pro heat 5 results. top 3 advance. wow….
2 Red 12.00 KENTA HAYASHI JPN
1 White 12.50 TATSUYA FUKAGAWA JPN
3 Yellow 9.66 NAOTO TAKANAHI JPN
4 Black 8.73 IAN ROTGANS USA
5 Green 7.50 KAINOA MCGEE HAW
6 Orange 5.60 ARJUNA MORGAN HAW

shota nakamura, kyohei yamada, and joe tanaka also advanced to round 2. go-japan…..

look down south!!! huge storms!!! tahiti will probably be huge. and another solid south swell coming next week. save gas, surf town….
***one last thing. HAPPY BIRTHDAY CHIAKI!!!! TANJYOBI OMEDETOU GOZAIMASU….

i stole this photo off chiaki’s blog. save a piece of cake for me… check out the rest of CHIAKI’S BIRTHDAY PARTY PHOTOS BY CLICKING HERE….

Surfing World Magazine: Cloud 9 Fiesta….

good morning. X-CEL PRO ON!!! waves 3-5′ out there on the north shore. round 1 on the way. a lot of japanese pro’s surfing today so check it out. too much sand on the beach at pipe so it’s not that good. 2 guys out. a small swell in town. chest high at bowls with 15 guys out. still kind of windy today but there’s surf all around the island. get it while you can. have a nice day….
went up to the mountains yesterday and there were a new batch of pigs. one adult and 6 piglets…..

they are eating good now and should be ready for the barbecue sometime in december or january. now, you don’t have to go all the way to bali to eat suckling pig. i went to watch how they made it on my last trip so i took notes and got it down…..

the only thing is that i don’t have the heart to put the knife in the little piggy’s heart. i guess i have to wait for hayato… haha…. but if you want some bali style suckling pig in hawaii, it’s coming soon. can’t wait to eat the crispy skin. [:??$B”y(B???:]

go out and get your surfing world magazine today. the new issue has our 14 page cloud 9 story. it’s called “Cloud 9 Fiesta”. gosh, that trip seemed like so long ago but it was only 4 weeks since i got back from the philippines. how time flies…. but other than getting food poisoning, it was an awesome trip. next time i go, i will be more careful of what i eat and drink. i’ll just eat at sagana resort everyday and night and everything will be fine. and to all my new filipino friends, see you guys next year!! salamat…..

Thanks Holli, your the best….

good evening. gosh, what a long day of doing nothing but sleeping. waves kind of windy and being that it’s sunday, i took a break. tomorrow is my offical start of this winter season. i’m going to surf everyday and get back to my routine. had a blast last night. i left my house pretty grouchy because i was going to miss the end of game 3 of the world series, and the uh football game. i had no idea where we were going but the next thing you know, holli rolls up with a limosine. the door opens and the red carpet rolled out. once again, one of holli’s surprises. she told me that we were celebrating candace’s birthday, russ and yoshika’s wedding, and my birthday too. i was pretty stoked. but still a litte pissed about my games i was missing…..

this is inside our limosine. complete with champane….. kanpai…..

then the limo pulls up to govanni pastrami. yeah!! a sports bar!!!! this is when i was stoked. there were big tv screens all over with the world series game going on along with the start of the uh football game. thanks holli, your the best…..

and if holli puts something together, she goes all the way. we had the full uh football tshirts, glow sticks, flags, and even footballs. by the way, uh won, and the red sox won too. it was a good night of sports for me. thanks holli, your the best….

we all headed back to holli’s hotel suite after the game. just to prepare for our waikiki bar hopping adventure. and oh what an adventure it was. champane, beer, jacksan, and tequila. i don’t even know how i got home. anyway, these are my friends. wanted to say happy birthday to candace, and congratulations to russ and yoshika on the start of their new life together. and thanks to john and kristie for putting your freaking fingers in my face all night. i had a blast and can’t wait to see you guys again… thanks holli, your the best….
**see that football russ is holding. we were walking around waikiki throwing that ball all over to each other. i was even running out for passes. even in the hotel lobby. glad we didn’t get arrested. it’s all about uh football fever!!!! go warriors!!! and dam, where did my football go????
**and congratulations to the Boston Red Sox…. they just won the world series!!! yeah!!! good night!!!