good sunday morning. had a rough night last night. had a blast but it was rough. red sox won, uh warriors won. waves in town bowls looks good again. 12 guys out as of 9am. i’m going back to sleep. goodnight…
picture this, on vacation in another country, going out to dinner in a nice restaurant with a bunch of guys, and hearing this song every single night in every single restaurant we ate in. i actually started feeling lonely…. and picture this, back to hawaii a week later and this song is in my head 24 hours a day. that sucks….
now this is more like it…..
TAKE ME DOWN TO THE PARADISE CITY WHERE THE GRASS IS GREEN AND THE GIRLS ARE PRETTY!!!

good evening. gosh, how’s the world series? and how’s daisuke’s pitching? it’s 6-0 now and i think they will win. well, i hope so. i have a dinner tonight so i will miss the rest of the game. and also miss uh warriors football game tonight too. gosh, my friend holli must be pretty important. if something nuts happens in these 2 games, i won’t be able to forgive her…. haha…
hey, surfed the same spot as yesterday. only today was much better. it was 3′ solid and going off. perfect rights and lefts again. and only a few guys out. i didn’t expect to surf anything overhead so i didn’t even check the waves before i paddled out. i took out my 5’10 minami bullet with no leash and when i got to the lineup, i couldn’t believe that the swell came in right before my eyes. got so many good waves so i’m really happy. heard more swells on the way. stoked… oh, the spot i surfed was “bowls”…. see you out there tomorrow….
i grew up in hawaii kai and right around the corner is the heaviest cliff dive in hawaii. this is called spitting caves. you time the wave so you jump when a wave breaks into the cave. then it spits at you. if you time it right, you will have the thrill of your life. if you time it wrong, you will have to be scraped off the reef with a shovel. and jumping is the easy part. climbing back off the rocks is another risk. so many people die here every year so i wouldn’t recommend it. we use to jump off here when we were kids and i will never do it again. i like my life too much…

and wanted to thank naoka for sending me this photo of japan today. typhoon 20 swell in shonan. wish i were there…. but then again, glad to be home…. catch a good one for me….. doomo desu….

good morning, picture perfect saturday morning. small waves around the island. swells on the way. enjoy your day….

this was diamond head cliffs yesterday evening. it was really windy but had some nice waves coming in. i use to surf here everyday when i use to train for the jpsa contests in japan. then as years went by, i found out that if you want to train for the jpsa circut in japan, you have to surf knee high beach breaks everyday in japan. that’s the only way. even a day like this at diamond head is much better than jpsa contest in japan. i surfed it for 3 years and don’t remember surfing good waves in any contest those years. i heard the waves are better now but i have to see it to believe it….

i got this photo off hayato’s camera in the philippines. i like it a lot because these are 3 happy surfers. well, until we got sick. after this photo, i got sick, hayato got sick, u-ske got sick, and some other guys got sick. iron stomach tokura-san was the only one who didn’t get sick. i guess he’s the veteran traveler, and we’re still all babies….

hunting season on!!! got a call from brandon saying the pigs are back. this is me in the mountains. watch out and stay out of my way or you might get an arrow in your ass. gosh, i should dress like this and surf the north shore too yeah? haha….
**by the way, a lot going on today. world series game 3. uh football at the aloha stadium. and big party with my friends tonight. can’t wait…

and don’t forget the x-cel pro waiting period starts today. it’s the official start of the 2007/2008 north shore winter season. big north swell on the way so expect them to get under way tomorrow morning. WATCH IT LIVE BY CLICKING HERE….