good morning. 7am saturday morning. small waves around the island. north shore only breaking only at the spots that catch the north swells. pipe missing and is flat with nobody out. town is waist high and kind of morning sickness. wait till about 9am to go surf because every where should be cleaning up. in america, we’re so lucky that every year, we have to do our taxes. that’s what i’m doing now. i love paying our government taxes so they can cut down trees on the likelike highway to make it look beautiful. then i love when a tree falls on somebody’s window and cracks it causing $400 in damage. and i especially love it when they turn the other way when that happens….. it’s a lose lose situation for some of us…. but life goes on…. have a nice day…
**i was looking through my photo library and came across these 2 photos. oh, so precious…..

this is seth moniz when he was 8. i just got my new canon lens that day so i wanted to use it. i called up the moniz’s, headed to waikiki, borrowed a longboard, sat back and snapped away. most of my photos were out of focus but this one was as sharp as can be. so sharp that you can see seth’s bricks on his stomach. imagine being 8 years old and throwing out the fins like this? and imagine your uncle sitting in the channel taking your photo yelling “do something”. i still do that…

and this is another precious photo. kelia and alyssa. two cute funny girls on their way to bright futures…. gosh, this photo cracks me up. i said cheese and i got a lot of cheese……..

good evening. gosh, what a beautiful day today. the tradewinds are back in full force making our skies deep blue. there was some waves in town today. surfed bowls for 3 hours this morning. i counted 28 guys out at 10am and that’s only at bowls. it was crowded but plenty of fun waves for everybody. i was surfing the rights and kind of dropping in so sorry guys. i had my 5’10 and i was having fun….

look how nice it was at the beach. canoes, coconut trees, blue sky, clean water, and fun waves. gosh, is this the start of summer already? heard some bigger south swells on the way.. yeah!!!

there use to be a lunch wagon in the parking lot in the old daiei near ala moana that had the best plate lunches. steak rolls with garlic or wasabi. i use to go there all the time. well, the wagon is gone but found out that they opened a restaurant near by. right across the street of palama market to be exact. i ate there yesterday and oh my gosh… so good. this is the 10oz. rib eye steak with garlic on top. $10 is a deal….. but my breath still stinks from eating all that garlic….

i gave my friend brandon 3 big awe’o weo’s i speared the other day. he told me that he’s going to sashimi one, and make soup with the other two. it sounded so good that i wanted to take back the fish and do the same thing. haha…

i speared this mu the other day too. these fish are the hardest fish to spear. they stay far away from you so you have to stay down for a long time to catch these. i mean a loooong time. i was so happy to spear this one and there is no way in the world i would give a mu away. to me, this is the best eating fish. steamed=awesome. deep fried=awesome. nitsuke=awesome. sashimi=broke da mouth…..

and last, after 20 years of the same stove. i finally went down to get a new one yesterday. this is the newest type and hope it lasts another good 20 years of good cooking….

good morning. 6:20am aloha friday. waves way down on the north shore. maybe 3′ with nobody out at pipe. swell looks really north so lani’s must be the spot. town has some small ones. chest high at ala moana. 8 guys out at the park, 3 guys out at rockpiles, and 6 guys out at the bowl. the winds are blowing strong trades so got some morning sickness conditions around the island. i’m going surfing… have a nice day….
**hey guys, it’s the first time in 12 years when the dollar went below 100 yen. it’s a time for you japanese to buy dollars now. don’t miss this chance. and it’s a time for people in america to wait a while if they are thinking about going to japan. unless your filthy rich. i remember the last time i the dollar fell below 100 yen. it was back in 1995 when we just got off a boat in indonesia. it was front page headlines in bali then and it’s making front page headlines in america now. i’m changing some yen right now…. if you have some, you should too….

got these photos from craig sako out in millilani. what started out as wild pigs wondering in his back yard turned into wild pigs being his pets. craig, did you know that black wild pigs or “kurobuta” are the best eating???

and craig, did you know i tried black wild pig raw liver before and it tasted unreal? better keep those healthy juicy pigs away from my friends…. hide them in your room.. haha….

and craig, did you know that i would love to eat this fish? fresh oio fishcakes. ummmm. let me know when i can pick it up… haha…
***now to leave you off with a clip of jack johnson’s breakdown. watch good because that’s jack surfing in there too. yeah, jack johnson rips….