Tuesday September24日 2024年

typhoon on the way…..

aloha, typhoon on the way. already a catagory 4 storm so the waves should be huge down south japan. still thinking of a plan. got to get my boards ready. out of here. oh, wanted to wish yumie koichi a very happy happy birthday…. omedetou…. be back later….

The Philippines Presidents Daughter….


no, the girl sitting next to me is not superman. she’s the president of the philippines daughter. she’s beautiful, quiet, kind, humble, and surfs…. she doesn’t go around with bodyguards or the secret service. well, maybe they were hiding in the jungle or something guns drawn. but she’s really friendly and just goes about as a normal person. that’s what makes this girl so cool. i was pretty honored to meet her….
*gosh, i don’t even know if i supposed to post a photo like this. or even take one. the last thing i want on my ass is the philippines military…. oh well, i’m sorry….

Typhoon 15 on the way!!!


gosh, everybody tells me i’m lucky. the whole time we were in the philippines, there was no waves in japan. and in the philippines when there are no typhoons, the waves are supposed to be flat. well, it was anything but flat. and now i’m back in japan and look what’s coming. typhoon 15….. i still got to take my boards out of my bag but i’m ready to go. hopefully more barrels to come… and for all of you who i’m supposed to meet this week, sorry. waves coming. i know you understand that my life revolves around the surf and if you don’t, your not my friend. haha… just joking. but i got to surf as much as i can now so when i get old and am sitting down on the deck of my big house overlooking the ocean somewhere in paradise, i can look back with no regrets and can say “been there, done that”….. until then, i’m going surfing…. see ya….