good morning. 6:30am here on this perfect clear day in hawaii. the waves look like it came up a little from yesterday. bowls has chest high waves and it should be getting bigger by tomorrow. 2 guys out at rockpiles, 7 guys out at bowls, and 6 guys out at the park. the conditions are once again epic. light winds, clear skies, and fun waves. it’s going to be a nice day. north shore had some 3′ perfect waves yesterday and another north swell on the way. have a fun and safe day….

the Bra Boys are from Maroubra, Australia. these guys are the real deal surfers, and brothers. check out their film they made about their lives growing up in Maroubra. i didn’t know where Maroubra was or who the Bra Boys were until i went to the philippines in 2003. sunny abberton, mark matthews, andy king, and some others flew over for the contest at cloud 9. i met them the first day i got there and got to hang out with them for 2 weeks. they were some of the nicest surfers i’ve ever met. kind, well mannered, and freakin surfed so good. ever since then, i’ve been hearing a lot about the Bra Boys and the Alberton brothers. things i read in the papers and things from other people. some good, some bad. their life story is pretty interesting and i can’t wait to see the film. sunny alberton directed the film and their close friend russell crowe is narrating it. go check it out and see how hard core surfers grew up in a tough neighborhood and beat the odds….

this is a photo filipino photographer kathy chua sent me last year. director and bra boy sunny alberton is in the middle, to his right is his brothers andy king, mark matthews, matt griggs, and jay tompson. far left is aaron fridette. a keeper photo….
**check out the trailor to the BRA BOYS….

there was another earthquake and tsunami in indonesia today. it measured 8.2M and sent a 9′ tsunami to padang. yes, padang. the place where you fly in to and get on the boat for a mentawai trip. i’ve been there 3 times and one of the times, there was a huge earthquake there too. i can imagine what this girl is feeling. pretty freaking scary….

good evening. what a beautiful day it was today. perfect to get outdoors. went for a dive this morning with my brother and mike. saw dolphins, turtles, and sharks….

we launched my boat from hawaii kai and headed past diamond head. this is the backside of diamond head right outside of black point. it was pretty nice out there….

we were looking around for a place to dive and some dolphins came to check us out. they were jumping right in front of my boat. so cool….

then they came near my boat and i was lucky i had my cell phone camera. i wish i had my good camera because i would have gotten some nice dolphin photos…. anyway, there’s always next time….. 2 minutes after the dolphins left, we jumped in the water and there were 2 big 8′ sharks cruzing around. where the dolphins there to tell us something? maybe yeah?

it’s always good to catch fish. i was diving a lot in japan so i got a bit spoiled. it’s a lot easier to spear fish in japan than it is in hawaii. i don’t want to say that fish in japan are stupid or anything. i think fish in japan are normal and the fish in hawaii are really smart. jump in the water here and find out for yourself. if you can spear fish in hawaii, you can spear fish anywhere in the world. ask any diver….
**anyway, ended up the day in the mountains. i practiced the bow and arrow and went hunting with my friend. it was such a long day in the beautiful nature…. good night….

good morning. it’s been 6 years since 9/11. where were you when it happened? i remember i was sleeping and got a phone call at 3am from bobby higa. i thought he was drunk calling me up to bother me but all he said was “turn on the tv”. right as i turned it on, i saw the second plane go into the second tower. oh my gosh, i thought i was dreaming. i thought all the airplanes in the air had terrorist on and they were going to crash into hawaii too. it as kind of scary. we’re still at war trying to fight terror and it ain’t going to end anytime soon. what a price we have to pay for our FREEDOM… but it’s worth everything we live for……

i saw this magazine in japan last week. it’s called “hawaii style” and there was an article on things to do in hawaii. alan and the guys at sponavihawaii introduced some adventurous things to do. here’s one….

try paddle boarding with tony moniz… i was pretty happy when i seen this shot of tony and kelia. father and daughter doing what they both love. just being in the ocean….

and riding the same wave together. that’s awesome….
**anyway, sponavihawaii.com just had the grand opening of their website and it looks pretty killer…. CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT SPONAVIHAWAII.COM….
***also, yuko shimajiri is in malibu surfing a contest there. got some cool photos on her blog. CHECK OUT YUKO’S BLOG BY CLICKING HERE…. ganbatte ne yuko!!
***well, the waves look fun. waist/chest high and epic glassy conditions. 7 guys out bowls. 2 guys out at the park. gosh, where’s everybody? the water looks good for a surf or a dive. ummm….. hard decision… have a nice day….