so here’s my luck. trying to get into ala moana park today to surf big rights. i knew the parade was going to start so i was driving a little fast there. got the green light, following the 5 cars ahead of me, and as soon as i was going to cross the intersection, the lady cop stops me. SHIT@…. i was stuck there for a while in the hot sun watching the parade from my car. wow, so fun…

and i wasn’t the only unlucky guy. i’d rather be surfing…. and talk about surfing, the waves were pretty dam good today. by far the best and biggest day for surf this year on the south shore. 4′ with some 5′ sets at spots like bowls with perfect conditions. i got 4 pretty nice barrels at big rights. gosh, it felt so dam good…. tomorrow, i’m getting barreled again….

did you know that energy drinks like red bull, rockstar, and monster energy drinks account for more than $3 billion in annual sales just in the united states? and did you know that the main ingredient is caffeine? and did you know if you gave a person like me that doesn’t drink caffeine 3 drinks, it would make my heart race and probably make me violent? yeah, they say that too much caffeine makes people aggressive and violent. anyway, i once drank a can and talked my friend to sleep. keep the caffeine away from me….

and did you know that jack daniels will kick your ass if you drink too much…. as jacksan says, “drink responsible and drive safe”…. happy summer…. thank’s shin-san for the photo from costco japan. now i know to take my membership card the next time i go there…

and last, my friends don’t believe me when i tell them how expensive fruits are in japan. so here it is. this 17lbs watermelon sold for $6,100. believe me now???

good morning. 6:30am saturday and the waves in town are going off!! just seen a solid 4′ set at bowls. got 25 guys out already. it’s going to be a solid day for surfing in hawaii. have a nice day. i’m out of here…

david kawada knew where the spot was yesterday. he was the only short boarder out at queen’s. he sat in the right place and caught some sick double up’s… from queen’s to pipe, david rips….

no, this is not a guy doing a snap on a fish or retro-board. this is a guy doing a snap on a freaking bodyboard. yeah, i tripped out because this guy was doing power snaps and cutbacks on his sponge… that’s nuts….

hey, these were the two doing tandom out out at queen’s… know them??

and last. everybody thinks queen’s is only a right. wrong. there is a left too. see….

good evening. went to go shoot queen’s this morning. the china women’s longboard contest is saturday and sunday so all the girls were out practicing. and the waves were going off. i thought it was going to be packed but it wasn’t that bad. only had one shortboarder in the inside catching all the good double ups… gosh, i wish i had my board…. i ended up shooting for an hour or so and headed back home to finish up our deck. then after sweating all day, i jumped in at lighthouse before dark. the tide was so high that the water was coming all the way up to the mountain. there was no beach today. weird. the waves were lumpy, flat, and windy but you know what? i had fun…. anyway, check out the photos from waikiki today…

queen’s had a lot of queen’s out there today. the girls were on it and ripping… where else in the world would you have so many good surfer girls out at one spot? nowhere… only in waikiki….

maki vernon was on it too. she was ripping today. that’s photographer paul teruya getting up close….

this was one of the waves of the day… pure stoke….

crystal is a roxy girl. she makes hanging ten look so easy. so when i caught my last wave on my longboard in, i tried to do one. i took my first step toward the nose and ate shit. good think i didn’t lose my camera… i hope nobody saw because i felt like an idiot…

in my whole life, this has to be the coolest shot i’ve ever taken. to me, this is what surfing is all about. pure stoke!!! i’m going to send this to every magazine, book, calendar, post card, and surf company until it gets published somewhere. and i ain’t giving up until i find out who this is. i’m giving this father and daughter this photo for free. happy father’s day to whoever this is…. so if you know who this awesome tandem duo are, please email me the info…. mahalo….
**more photos tomorrow…