good evening. queen’s=packed. bowl’s=contest. concessions=30 guys. big rights=20 guys. looked everywhere and remembered about this spot that works on a south/east swell at low tide. and yes, it was working. paddled out, nobody out, perfect barrels, dream session. caught 20 waves, got barreled 15 times, did 30 snaps, 20 cutbacks, and came in. i left my house thinking i was just going to get wet somewhere and ended up having the best surf session all summer. that’s the cool thing about surfing; you just never know when and where you’ll have your dream session…. i love it… can’t wait till tomorrow…. and if you want to know where i went, not going to tell you. all i have to say that it’s a reef that’s fickle between magic island and kewalo’s. better not see you there tomorrow….

speaking about dream sessions.. was watching the tssc boat trip dvd to mentawai last night online. matchi and i out at HT’s, 6′, nobody else. unheard of. dream session? ask matchi….

then the last day of that trip, pulled up to kandui lefts. 4′, nobody out. unheard of. dream session? ask yuuichi…. dream trip? ask everybody that went….

and last, was searching the web and came across this website. check out this freaking huge tuna. 314kg? holy cow…. that’s almost 700lbs. can somebody tell me where this guy caught it from? i want to go there with my spear and give it a shot…. CLICK HERE FOR AN AWESOME JAPANESE FISHING ISLAND WEBSITE….

good morning. got still got some waves out there. got up late so you probably already know how the waves are. looks pretty dam fun… i’m going surfing…. see ya….

went out for a pool tournament last night with kazu who works for aloha street magazine. we are tied up right now so have to go out and do it again.. pretty simple. you lose, you drink…

i left the bar late at night and was asking myself, “i wonder how many drunk drivers are on the road right now”. it was weird because there were so many cars on the road. then i pull up to the stop light in front of the convention center and seen this girl open the passenger door. i thought she was going to get out of the car but instead, she hung her head out and started throwing up. her friend drove for about a mile like this. i was laughing and had to get a photo…

this is stop light #2 near hard rock cafe. there was a cop on the other side of the intersection so i thought they were going to get busted. i guess it was their lucky night…. but i bet that girl has the meanest hangover right now. [:?????????:][:?????????:] haha…

good evening. where did you surf today? a pretty fun 3′ south swell with perfect trade winds making good conditions everywhere. it’s been a while since i went to big rights so big rights it was. it wasn’t really big rights today, it was more like medium rights. but super fun. had a bunch of guys out but i don’t mind when big rights is crowded. because everybody takes turns catching waves out there. wait, don’t believe that. not if ronnie yamada is out. he catches everything. haha. just joking ronnie… i had a fun session but kind of felt bad when i came in. why? because i accidently dropped in on kyle on my last wave. i had to come in so i took off on a wave and didn’t look back. i knew somebody was behind me but i didn’t care. well, until i saw kyle… sorry kyle.. i owe you one… or two.. but hey, checked the forecast and back to back to back south swells on the way. nothing huge but fun surf for a while. my friends been asking me why i haven’t been shooting recently. my answer. because i’m a surfer… get it? haha.. i think that’s funny because everybody rather see me taking photos rather than taking the waves… when i get a little burnt out, i’ll bust out my camera. but until then, go easy…

BUSTED!!! imagine being a pervert like that guy and getting caught? i wonder what his wife will say when she sees this photo? or his kids? or maybe his boyfriend???? what an idiot. if that was my friend, i would kick him in the nuts…. well, if he even had any….
**got an email from gerry from sagana resort….

he says cloud 9 has been smoking so far this year…. shit, i wish i were there…. uncrowded perfect barrels? ahhh…..

yeah, i’ve been there and done this. after leaving cloud 9, i always tell myself that i had enough. but after seeing photos like this, i didn’t get enough. i want more and more….

check out crowded rock island. packed yeah? haha.. freakin nobody out!! ahh…. i have to go because i’m starting to feel sick…. thanks gerry….