Sunday September22日 2024年

Life…..

good evening. went to surf bowls today around 10am. perfect timing. seen the locals coming in from the morning session. tats, hiro, and keiko told me the waves were fun. yes it was fun. shoulder high sets with perfect conditions. only had 3 guys out when i paddled out and 2 of them were japanese. i think i scored. got some perfect long lefts today. felt good to be back in hawaiian waters….

carter met me out today on his new glenn minami bullet. i let carter try mine a month ago and he was hooked. he got his own now….

i met these two girls at aoi koike’s bodyboard tour 2 years ago. i was ready to jump into the water when they called me. i was so happy they remembered me. they both came to hawaii for only 2 days and they scored today. perfect bowls with nobody out. what a small world….

i’m a booring guy when it comes to movies. i go to a movie theater once in every 3 years if i’m lucky. i think the last movie i went to see in the theater was Titanic. anyway, been hearing a lot about this movie “Life” in japan. it’s a documentary about a pro japanese windsurfer that passed away due to cancer. i heard a lot was filmed in hawaii so i really wanted to see it. it was playing in osaka so i went to go check it out. gosh….. bring the tissue… i don’t want to say anything about this movie because i think everybody should see it. it’s about love, courage, family, friends, respect, and dedication. i was glued to my seat while watching it and after i left the theater, i felt sad, but yet, so happy. doing what i do, i totally felt the feelings of the actors in the movie. it was sooo real….. please go and see it. i heard 6,000 people showed up to watch it in waikiki when they showed it a couple of weeks ago and nobody was complaining. i wish i went too because i heard the family, and actors went up on stage after. it must have been awesome….

this is the family the the documentary is based on. i wish i can meet them someday and give them all a hug…. gosh, i feel like crying now….

2007 MTV Awards…..

good morning. 6:30am on this sunny day in hawaii. waves are chest high in town with 12 guys out at bowls. the waves look super fun. 3 guys are at the park where it’s a little smaller. got a south swell and north swell coming this week. today, i’m surfing. have a nice day…..

last night was the MTV awards and britney spears didn’t look as good as she use to. was it because of too much partying?? well, at least her hair grew back….

you want class? check out alicia keys…. that’s freakin class…. and this chick can sing too….

i was looking through photos from last year and this one made me laugh. the guy to on the right of the photo holding the apple is japan pro surfer maoh toda. maoh is such a cool and funny guy. we went to the maldives last year on a boat trip for 2 weeks. it was 2 weeks of fun, fun, and fun. it was also the first time i surfed with him and i was amazed on how good and smooth he surfed. i’m stoked i met him on that trip and can’t wait for another “jacksan” night with him…. oh, the guy on the left eating the orange is pro surfer yasuaki higashikawa. another good surfer, cool and super funny guy…..

i was playing around with my water camera and snapped this shot of maoh duck diving. the water in the maldives is as clean as it gets….
**oh, maoh has a blog. got some pretty funny photos on there. check it out by CLICKING HERE…..
**also wanted to congratulate jasmin on her recent birthday. sorry i missed it…

i stole this photo off zuccho’s blog. zuccho is another awesome surfer, mellow, and a really nice guy. zuccho was JPSA champion so many times. he was the man to beat when i used to surf JPSA’s…. check out ZUCCHO’S BLOG BY CLICKING HERE…..

First Artificial Reef Surf Break Planned in Japan….


good evening. was so stoked to drive around in my own car today. went to check diamond head but didn’t feel like walking down the cliff to the beach so i turned around and went up the mountains….

the mountains up my friends hill is amazing. killer views, wild pigs, and…..

stawberry/quava’s….. so sweet. gosh, it’s so awesome when your in the mountains. the sound of the wind, the smell of the guava’s, and just pure nature. ever want to relax the mind? climb the nearest mountain and that should work….

surf news: congratulations to teppei tajima from japan for winning the ASP WQS Sahara Pro in Fukushima…..

The Shop in hiratsuka has been around for years. chobo-san is the owner and i’ve known him ever since i went to japan. he a super cool guy that surfs really good. anyway, The Shop had their annual contest this year and professional cameraman kenji sahara was there shooting it. check out the photo gallery up on GO-NAMINORI.COM….

***the government in prefecture of Wakayama, just south of osaka, plans to make an artificial reef for surfers. they are going to put natural stones in the water forming a reef that will produce waves of up to 1.5 meters to 2 meters (6.6 feet). the government wants to attract surfer tourists and try to make it safe for beginners. construction is going to start in late december or early january 2008. i hope more artificial reefs are put in place around japan for the increasing number of surfers. a lot of surfers will be stoked….


and round 1 is on at the ASP WCT boost mobile pro in Trestles, California…. CLICK HERE FOR LIVE COVERAGE….