Sunday September22日 2024年

Hawaiians Surfing Alaskan Glacier Tsunami Waves….

good morning. 6:30am here in beautiful osaka. heading to shikoku today to get barreled. have a nice day and keep cool because it’s going to be a hot day. i’m sweating in my hotel room….. out of hea…..

garrett mcnamara nad kealii mamala are two crazy hawaiians. when i seen the video clip for this, i freaked out. they sat and waited near an ice mountain in alaska melting away. when the glacier came crashing down into the lake, they freaking towed into the tsunami waves. that’s freaking nuts…. what the hell is next??? CHECK IT OUT…

Japan Saiko…..

“saiko” in japanese means unreal or awesome. saiko was one of the first words i learned when i came to japan. i must have used it a million of times since. saiko is how i will describe my trip to shizuoka….

right off the train to the beach. the waves were flat but nobody here was complaining. in fact, we were stoked because it was dive time… saiko….

we call these “bugs” in hawaii. hard to come by in hawaii now days. but in japan, loaded…. saiko….

a mixed bag of fish and stuff. these are “isidai”. best for sashimi. saiko….

makaki from REAL WESTSIDE MOVEMENT prepared this awesome dish….. saiko….

everything on this plate was swimming in the water just a few hours before. fish, shell fish, and lobster sashimi…. saiko….

sashimi along with a barbecue? saiko….
**wanted to thank masaki, his family, and the boys at real west side movement. doomo arigato gozaimashita. anyway, that’s how my day ended of the first day in shizuoka. shizuoka saiko……

Dive/Surf in Shizuoka….

good evening everybody. gosh, what a super cool day it was today. the barrels clinic went off and so did the waves and competitors. the waves were perfect waist/chest high and everybody was surfing good. it’s cool to see the smiles on everybody’s faces and the stoke they have on surfing. i took some photos but too dam tired to even take the card out of my camera so your going to have to wait a few days. and yes, there was a huge barbecue after and that was super fun too. there’s been a barbecue almost every day here. last night, makaki made the meanest sashimi platter. ishidai, sazaie, and lobster sashimi. not too mention all the meat and stuff. my stomach if full, my body smells like a barbecue, and i’m tired. typhoon 9 is on the way and expect the waves to get huge real fast. maybe tomorrow? maybe the day after? but yes, it’s going to be big and epic. see you in the barrel…. goodnight….

oh, check out this cool looking house i seen in the country side. i wouldn’t mind living in one of these. must have some history. and probably some ghosts too yeah? never mind….