good morning. 7am on this saturday morning. 2-3′ up there on the north shore with clean conditions. 3 guys out at pipe, and a bunch out at lani’s. i see 10 guys paddling out right now so it’s going to get packed. town is flat with nobody out at bowls and 3 stand up paddlers out at the park. the winds are out of the east and will be turning more out of the south/east tomorrow so expect epic conditions out on the north shore. see you out there…. have a nice day….
i haven’t drank jamacian red stripe beer in a while… forgot how good it tastes….
and haven’t ate champa thai in a while…. forgot how good it tastes…..
and haven’t met jacksan in a while… forgot how much he kicks my ass…..[:????????????:][:????????????:][:????????????:]
and last…. wanted to thank holli for the awesome christmas present. a cocktail shaker….. yeah!!! the next twilights shots are on me….. kanpai[:????????????:][:????????????:][:????????????:]
From Red Stripe to Champa Thai to Jacksan to Twilights….
Surfing Lani…
gosh, i spaced out. tonight they are going to have the Surfing Lani tv in Japan. Check it out and see how nervous i was.. haha….[:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:]
**check out the Surfing Lani TV website by CLICKING HERE….
New: Surf Girl Roxy Book…..
good evening. just came home from the north shore. haleiwa was overhead and pretty good this afternoon and not too many people out. saw kawabata-san’s son and inaba-san’s son ripping it up. those kids are going to get better and better…. the waves on the north shore are trying to clean up and hopefully be good this weekend. can’t wait…. anyway, have a great evening….
this is what diamond head looked like around 10am. it was waist high and actually really fun. i guess the sun made anything fun today….
the new “Surf Girl Roxy” book just came out last week and guess who got the cover? yeah, kelia…. this book is awesome. one of those collectors issue that can sit on the coffee table for years and years. i’m so happy for her…
my favorite photo in the book is this surfer mag. cover shot. this is not tom curren or kelly slater. this is lisa anderson. what a sick photo. guys dream of doing a turn like this. i remember when i first saw this cover. lisa anderson became my favorite female surfer since that day…..
this is another photo in the book which i like. yeah, read the t-shirt. “Clean your Beach”….