Huge South Pacific Swell on the Way!!!

good evening. what a voggy day here in hawaii. probably the voggiest i’ve ever seen. these south/east winds are bringing the volcano smoke up all the way from the big island. people are having a hard time breathing..

i took this at 4pm this afternoon from the mountain. you could barely see waikiki. felt like i was in LA…. luckily we have this vog once in a while. imagine breathing this air everyday? yikes… as for the waves, epic perfect surf around the island. the north shore was the place to be. more and more waves in the forecast. i came home at the perfect time…

when ever i get back to hawaii, the first thing i want to eat is hawaiian food. so hawaiian food is what i eat. some fresh opihi from brandon, some poke, lomi salmon, lau lau, and of course, poi. glad to be back home…

the billabong tahiti 08 pro is going to be huge!!! big swell hitting tahiti now and perfect barrels on the way. CLICK HERE FOR LIVE COVERAGE….

and last, check out my new spice summer collection lineup i got while i was in japan. killer stuff.. thanks spice…. CLICK HERE FOR THE SPICE SUMMER COLLECTION….

Tadaima….

good morning. gosh, it was a long trip. 1 month of so many things going on. i’m glad to be home. seems like the more times i leave hawaii, the more i miss hawaii. i was happy when the airplane landed. got searched inside and out by customs. they asked me “why did you go to thailand” three times. i said “for vacation” three times. gosh, did they think i was going to change my answer? anyway, they checked all my luggage and asked me so many questions. first time…. oh well….
i just downloaded 1078 photos, including videos into my computer. gosh, how time flies…. i got some awesome photos and videos and hopefully will be able to post most of it. but for now, i got something more important to do. and that’s to GO-NAMINORI…. see you in the water. waves going off all around the island with sunny skies, blue water, and no winds. yahoo!!!!

Thai Local Open Market…

wow, what a long last day i had. thought i’d do something good for a change so i went up north out of bangkok to visit one of the most hard core prisons in the world. i wanted to visit this prisoner from britain that’s spending the rest of his life for drug smuggling. drugs in thailand equals big trouble. if you get caught even with a joint, you could spend the rest of your life in prison here. and get caught with more, it’s the death penalty. anyway, i searched the web for the prison where foreigners are housed. spent 3 hours on a train and boat to get up there. i thought i’d drop by to talk story with the poor guy and give him some magazines and stuff. it took me a while but i finally found the prison. gosh, it looked horrible from the outside. tall walls and really dirty looking. i heard the conditions in there are the worst in the world. it was kind of scary when i first seen it. anyway, i went to the office and told the guy who i want to see. i had to lie and tell him that he was a friend of mine. i gave him my passport and all the information necessary. he looked at me and said, not today. what??? he said that they don’t allow foreigner visitors on friday. shit, i gave him my sad story on it was my last day in thailand, and i came from hawaii, and i really had to see my friend. he didn’t give a shit. i could feel like he just wanted me to leave. and leave i did. i was really bummed out but didn’t want to push it. i’m in another country and i could end up in there for any reason they wanted. so i came back to bangkok bummed. then i went looking for this orphanage for unwanted babies. maybe donate something. anyway, i went to the right station and was walking all over looking for it. then i finally found someone that knew where it was. he told that they moved across the other side of the city. it was getting late so not enough time. shit. what a depressing day. i’m kind of bummed out but now i guess i have another reason to come back. those are two places i will have to visit someday. next time, i will be better prepared. anyway, going to eat my last tom yum soup and thai green curry from a little stand near my hotel. i can smell it…. see ya…
**check out some more photos…

if we had an open market like this back in hawaii, foodland and safeway would go out of business. everything you need. no expensive packaging, no chemicals, and no bullshit. somebody please make one in hawaii. i promise i’ll go everyday….

the seafood is so fresh. oh, do you know how to tell if the fish is fresh? put your finger in the mouth, swing it 3x in the air, and if it stays on your finger, it’s fresh… haha.. no, just look at the eyes and gills. the eyes should be clear and not milky white. and the gills should be red, not pink. these fish were fresh…..

once again, i am fascinated with the lifestyle here. i stood on this street for an hour just watching everything around me. the people, the bikes, the tuktuks, and the kids playing. it was pretty cool. you all should try it someday….