Sunday December29日 2024年

Frosty the Snowman….

good evening. left my house with the 2 boys, then headed over to my sisters house to pick up the other 2 boys. we had a fun day….

shun and ryota went to check out the moniz boys room. this is their trophy rack….

after i picked up the boys, we went to surf kewalo’s. the waves were so fun. much better than yesterday and it was really sunny. the kids had fun. then it was off for some fishing at uncle perry dane’s house. on the way out there, there was a yard sale. dropped by to check out some old surfboards and stuff. pretty cool hawaiian style beach front yard sale…

we went fishing right off the rocks and we caught a lot of fish. we ended up throwing some back because this was enough. these fish are called “aholehole”. deep fried these fish and you got an awesome meal. after some fishing, we headed to the north shore. ehukai beach park was the spot today. almost every grom on the island was out. even kelly slater and andy irons were surfing with the groms. surfed into the sunset….

now this is the shitty part. out all day, drove around the island, surfed two times, and even went fishing. yeah, the drive back to town sucks. especially when there is choke traffic and heavy rain. i’m lucky christmas is coming up because i was singing christmas songs they were playing on the radio all the way home. “frosty the snowman, was a very happy man……” i love christmas. christmas makes me happy….. good night…..
**today was pretty fun hanging out with the boys. the were playing around in the back seat of my car when i was driving. doing jun ken po, and teaching each other japanese and english. i was so stoked to hear seth saying “daijyobu? onamae wa nan desu ka? and nansai desu ka? that’s pretty good for today. shun and ryota were speaking english too. then after the japanese/english lesson, they started wrestling each other. i was just laughing because it was funny. but when i went to surf ehukai and pulled my board out of my board bag, i wasn’t laughing. there was a big hole in my good board from somebody’s surfboard nose. it must have happened while they were playing around. oh well, boys will be boys….

Mark Occhilupo Retires..

good windy cold saturday morning. the winds backed down a little but still blowing hard. waves way down from yesterday. north shore looks 1′ if your lucky. no pipe masters today. town has knee/waist high waves. 6 guys out at rockpiles and 3 at bowls. the waves will me small for few days so get use to it. have a nice day and see you in the water…

mark “occy” occhilupo surfed his final heat as a WCT surfer today at pipe. he’s 41 years old and has accomplished so many things in his surfing career. what a legend….

this is sugar cane. when we were kids, we use to ride our bikes and cut through the sugar cane fields on the north shore. all i remember was sugar cane and pineapple fields. those were the days. now? nothing… sugar went out of business as well as pineapples. that sucks. now there’s all weeds in the once beautiful landscape views of the north shore. what next? hotels? i don’t want to be around to see that. that would kill me….

tokura-san took this photo in the philippines. i would be sitting on my bed every night working. i still hate the person who invented the computer. this machine took most of my life away. i don’t even have time for my daily afternoon nap anymore….
**anyway, hold on to your hats and get ready for 3 more super windy days in hawaii….

Good Windy Aloha Friday….

good evening. been having trouble with my new cell phone. the technology is just too much for me. still trying to figure things out but i just don’t like to input text with it. too freakin small keys. anyway, just got back from a long day. check out some photos….

the contest was on today and it was pretty boring. the waves were 3-4′, windy, and crappy. if there wasn’t a contest today, nobody would probably be surfing. that’s how junk it was. went to watch a few heats and they finally cancelled it at 12pm. good call. there are no waves for a while but i think contest surf forecaster bernie baker can see something way out there. japan is freezing cold now so we shall see. but so far, this has been the worst season in hawaii for waves, and also the worst pipeline masters ever….

brought the boys back with me to town today. the waves on the north shore was super junky and will be worst tomorrow so we’re going to have some fun in town. just as we were getting in my car, somebody called me. shit, it was Mega…. i didn’t even know he was here. he said he came yesterday and will be here for 2 weeks. check out mega’s 50 Cents hand sign. bali gang style…

when we left the north shore, i asked the kids if they wanted to sightsee on the way back to town. they said yes so we took the long way home around the island…. stopped by perry dane’s house on the way to check out his new boat. and to check out some surf spots and dive spots. next time those south/west winds come, i’m there… i don’t think these kids realize that north shore local perry dane is most japanese pro surfers nightmare. when he paddles out to backdoor, off the wall, or v-land, it’s better to paddle in. but maybe now, ryota and shun can get a wave from him…. check out the kids shaka’s…. learning fast….

we came back to town and had time to get in a session at kewalo’s. it was windy but the waves were head high for the boys and fun. there was only 2 other surfers out when they paddled out. they were getting barreled and having such a great time. then carissa moore paddled out and pulled a sick backside 306 right in front of them. the were surprised to see a girl surf that good. and surprised that carissa spoke japanese to them. later in the session, carissa told me that those 2 kids surf really good. i think so too…

and last, here are the kids taking photos again. cool rubbish cans… haha….
**well, gotta get going. have a great evening…..