i grew up at sandy beach back in the days. half point was a dream to me. i was so young and such a kook that i had to sit on the inside shoulder watching all the boys rip it up. so i’ve been keeping my eyes on half point. town was pretty much flat today so i chanced it and drove out to the east side solo. i saw 4 perfect waves like this break with only 2 bodyboarders out. shit, i was on it…. and when i was surfing the wave, i couldn’t believe i could catch the sets. gosh, i guess the boys out at sandy’s back in the days traumatized me. the sandy beach boys were nuts…. i took that photo at 9:06am…

even the chicks knew where the best spot on the island was today. oh, when i first pulled up the the empty beach, 2 japanese girls pulled up in their rent-a-car right next to me. when they got out, they ran on the beach jumping and screaming “sugoi, sugoi, kirei”. shit, i wish i shot that. i took a photo for them and it’s been a while since i’ve seen such happy tourists…. only in hawaii….

then i jump into my car and pull up to kewalo’s. the boys were out ripping so i figure, go get some shots…. this is JPSA pro keito masaoka doing the layback snap….

then jason shibata was killing it too… i took much better photos but have to hold out. wait till the mags come out….

this months surf1st cover boy kaito ohashi going left. to the left, to the left…[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:] the boys are here for the contest coming up at bowls this weekend. hope they all do good….

1:02pm. gosh, this is a cool photo. a keeper. nick mita, jason shibata, keito masaoka, u-ske, kazuya sato, kaito ohashi, shuji kasuya, me, and yukiko. no, this is not japan, this is hawaii. and yeah, each and every person in this photo has some connection with hawaii and japan. a connection that brings people together by chance. no, this was not planned, we all met there by chance. that’s the cool thing about surfing, it brings everybody together. gosh, i felt like getting out a grill, a cooler of beers, and putting on “we are family” on my ipod. maybe next time…

good morning. 6am and small waves around the island again. in fact, i’ll call today flat. seen a knee high set at bowls with 8 guys fighting for a wave. the park has 6 or so out. north shore is a lake. heard the huge dead whale is sitting on the beach at kahuku with a dozen 15′ hungry tiger sharks right off shore. was going to dive out there today but no thank you. going to look for a little clean wave and surf it. have a nice day….

the other day i swam out to bowls with my goggles, i seen this net stuck on the reef. some idiot put it there to catch fish and didn’t take it home. shit like this pisses me off….

the same idiot probably doesn’t realize that anything that crosses this invisible nets path is dead meat. including endangered monk seals, turtles, and even a surfer can get stuck in it and drown. they should make these illegal in hawaii. it’s so sad that any tom, dick, or harry can drive down to any fishing store, buy one, and destroy our ocean. wake up guys….

good evening. even though the waves are small in town, all you have to do is drive around the corner to sandy beach and score. yeah, the waves were super fun and clean yesterday and today. it was like paradise out there. made me feel like i was in high school again swimming through the shorebreak….

ok, i drive through the parking lot at sandy’s. this guy was selling coconuts on the grassy area. i really wanted one so i pull up to ask him how much. he told me $3 and i told him “no thank you”…. $3? i could buy some gas, take a scenic drive into the mountains, and pick my own coconut. i wanted to go back to the guy and tell him that i wasn’t a tourist so better go easy before i call the cops. yeah, you can’t just set up shop on the beach and sell stuff. this ain’t bali.. and $3 for a coconut is a rip off….

i always keep my mask and fins in the car so i figure go check it out. yeah, the water is always clean at sandy’s. i didn’t have my spear so of course, a huge ulua swims right in front of me, then a couple of uhu’s, then a school of 20lbs awa’s. all in 20 minutes time. it’s so weird how they know you don’t have a spear for some reason. i quit diving sandy’s because there just isn’t any fish out there anymore. but after seeing what i saw, i’m going back for some sashimi…. but with my luck, no fish will be around…. oh, i just ended up diving for fishing lead and lures. lead ain’t cheap now days so if i give this to some fisherman, he’d be stoked…. anybody want it? and there’s a lot more out there….

got this email from garut today “yea,bra! hows your life over there bro?? check out this photo.. glenn surfboard so sick bro, its was magic on it.”

and last, alyssa just came back from japan. she called me and was going on and on about how fun it was. i believe. check out her blog for some cool photos… CLICK HERE FOR ALYSSA’S BLOG….