pulled up to backdoor/off the wall at 6:45am. only a couple guys out and looked pretty fun. but had a funny feeling i should check v-land. pulled up to v-land 5 minutes later and oh my gosh!!! E-P-I-C!!! v-land was 4′ and perfect!!! long barreling rights…. i was running on the beach and paddled out as fast as i could. just like a kid. i’d say v-land was a 10 on a scale of 1-10. surfed and got barreled for 2 and a half hours with not too many guys out. score!!!
then drove down to sunset to watch the contest. it was 3′ and windy off the point. it was kind of booring after surfing epic waves all morning so i was out of there….

dropped by glenn minami’s shaping room to pick up seth’s new boards. a 4’5 short board and a 4’4 bullet. gosh, those boards are so small. and gosh, those boards look so sick….

results for the x-cel pro:
1st- Joel Centeio
2nd- Mason Ho
congrats to the boys from hawaii….


i took my olympus camera out to surf the other day. todd mitsui and bobby higa were out so i snapped this photo. surfing perfect waves with only a few guys out brings a smile to anyone….

speaking of bobby higa. bobby is part owner of VERTRA SKINCARE…. he gave me a bunch of sunscreen for my precious face. haha…. i came home and was playing around with my icamera and wanted to know how i’d look if i was half shane dorian. not bad yeah?? haha… gosh, i’m so black you can’t even see me. i’d better put more vertra sunscreen on my face before i surf. thanks bobby..

check out nakajima-san’s gallery from chiba the other day on GO-NAMINORI.COM… got some nice photos. and gosh, the water looks cold….[:???:][:???:][:???:]
***attention bowls, kaisers, rockpiles surfers…. get your ass down to the bowls parking lot tomorrow morning at 10am to protest the privatized gated pay parking planned. if you don’t, expect to pay $5/hour to surf your own spot….

good morning. 5:30am. shit, the winds picked up. it’s blowing kind of hard now and the waves in the north shore don’t look that good. the buoy came up so the waves are on the way but back to trade wind weather. the xcel pro should be finishing today. i got a lot of things to do today, but first, got to surf. going to the north shore. want to beat the traffic so i’m out of here…. see ya… oh yeah, the biggest safeway supermarket in the country is opening today in kapahulu. i passed by there yesterday and couldn’t believe how fast they built it. when i left in july, nothing was there. now it’s a huge building with all kinds of stores around. kapahulu’s got a new look and i like it…..

i’ve been looking for the perfect size pelican camera case for a long time. i was usper lucky and scored one in okinawa. keith is in the marines and had an extra one made for night vision goggles. he was super cool enough to give it to me… thanks keith….

it’s perfect for traveling. these cases are so strong that you can put a raw egg inside, throw it off a building, and it won’t break. even stronger than a pelican….

this is kevin and keith. kevin is from kauai and has been living in okinawa for years. super nice guy and really good diver…. keith is in the marines stationed on kadena air force base. we stayed at his house. he’s also another really good diver. thanks guys for teaching me a lot of diving tips. can’t wait to hook up with you guys again….

keith’s wife is from thai. we were so lucky to eat real thai homestyle cooking. soooo good. and so spicy too. thanks so much…

and i still think japan has the most beautiful sunrises. check out this okinawan sunrise. sick….
finally, check out my new hobby…. see you at tantalus…

good evening. small waves around the island but super fun. spent half the day shooting and the other half in my garage checking out all my toys. sorted out my big boards for the north shore, and sorted out my diving stuff. now i’m ready for anything… waves supposed to pick up tomorrow. i’m dawning north shore…. see you out there….
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WARNING: AQUA DOTS CONTAIN THE DATE RAPE OR “GHB” DRUG!!!! gosh, what is this world coming too. consumers all around the world want to get the cheapest toy so they are turning to china. china doesn’t only use dirty cardboard boxes to make manapua’s, they now they use the “date rape” drug in children toys. aqua dots is hottest selling toy in 2007. you can find them in wallmart and even costco. 4.2 million were made and these toys are in childrens playboxes around the world in 40 countries. and it’s just a matter of time when other toys will be recalled. all it takes is another childs death. what a screwed up world we live in. as an american, i put the blame 100% on america. how could the government let something like that get into our country? and watch out japan because it’s probably still on toy shelves in the toy store around the corner…. christmas is right around the corner and if some kid didn’t get sick, this toy would be in millions of households…. come on america, protect our children….
**a little better news. the waves were so fun today. i’m super surfed out so after checking the waves this morning, i decided to go shoot queen’s. i finally took my camera stuff out of my suitcase. i’m glad it still works. check some of the photos out…

my sister paddles out with 4 of her 5 kids and gets the first wave. and a set too… good job sis… show those kids how to catch a set at the most crowded spot on in hawaii….

kelia’s surfing is just getting better and better. next year, she will probably be break dancing on the nose of her board…

i forgot the boys can longboard too. here’s seth walking the nose on his brand new board…

isaiah has a good style on the short board as well as on the longboard. he’s the style master… haha…

josh was stressing. he couldn’t get a wave for a while because everybody was snaking him. i told him to go paddle out there and go no matter what. just like uncle kirby. and that’s what he did. good job josh….

this is the best stand up paddle board women i’ve ever seen…. she was ripping.. and catching all the waves too….

there are so many girls surfing now a days. when i started surfing, there were no girls surfing. now, there all around. it’s pretty cool because no need go to a club anymore to check out chicks, just go surf….

and if their not just in the water, their on the beaches around the world. so a message to all those guys that go to clubs trying to hook up with chicks. sorry, you guys are in the wrong place….. surf’s up!!!