good morning and happy independence day. gosh, today is going to be nuts! firework shows all over the island. magic island being the biggest fireworks show with 50,000 people expected. and get this, for the first time ever, hawaii kai is putting on a fireworks show at moanalua bay. it’s cool seeing hawaii kai going big!! i seen some of the boys down at bowls this morning saving parking spaces and grassy areas already. 4th of july is a huge holiday for everybody in hawaii. surf safe, drive safe, and be happy…. by the way, that photo above is in my personal top 5 photos i’ve ever taken. hope to top that one tonight…. can’t wait….
i surfed kewalo’s in the afternoon yesterday. it was pretty dam good. 3′ solid and super ripable. seen nick mita, jason shibata, and keito masaoka ripping it up. today probably the same but good luck finding parking. seen a lot of tents and people camping at all over the place last night….
check out this photo. a perfect unridden wave yesterday at kaisers. on a normal summer day, every single wave has somebody riding on it. even 2 or 3 surfers. but not recently. i’ve seen more empty waves this past week than i’ve seen my whole life. if you want one, better come and get it…. go-naminori…
**by the way, it’s 6am and the waves are once again, going off. shoulder high sets in town with everybody on it already. i’ve never seen ala moana park so crowded in my life. easy 100 guys out already, maybe more. and i ain’t kidding. wow… bowls has 18 guys out. super lite trades right now so epic conditions. i’m going to leave my house and enjoy this beautiful independence day. oh, north shore looks good too. lani’s 3′ and a little bumpy but it’s summer so nobody’s complaining…. have a nice day….
Happy 4th of July: Epic Hawaii Surfing Sessions….
Beyonce: To the Left, To the Left….
good evening. like a broken record “another perfect day of surf in hawaii”….. gosh, it’s been so epic. when is it going to get shitty so i can get other things done around my house. i need like 10 days to get things back up to date. the waves and weather have been too perfect to do anything else besides surfing. so surfing it is and surfing it will be. sorry to all of you who sent emails to me. make the waves go away and make it rain so i can get back to you. oh wait, flat waves and rain? good for diving.. haha… oh, everybody who keeps asking about the music in the videos. those are all from my collection on my ipod. if you really really want one of the songs, let me know which one and when i have some time, i’ll send it to you. no problem. my ipod is the bomb and we can sit down for hours listening to classic music going “ahhh, oohhhh, ahhhh”. know what i mean? it took years and years to get all the all time classics on there but it was well worth it… hawaiian, reggae, 70’s, 80’s, alternative, and a whole lot more…
**getting back to things. went to hook up with jun jo and shuji kasuya this morning. the waves? perfect. the lighting? perfect. check it out…
jun jo rips. he’s the kind of guy that can go to new york and not surf for months. then jump into a pro surfing contest and win the dam thing. that’s talent…
shuji kasuya rips. he’s the kind of guy that paddles out to any spot around the world and turns heads. a lot of girls heads. i’m starting to get tired of all the chicks telling me “shuji is so handsome, shuji is so cool, shuji surfs so good, where’s shuji now?” hey girls, what about me? haha… just joking…
to the left, to the left[:????$B”L(B?:]…. ever since i went to beyonce’s concert in japan, i can’t get that freakin song out of my mind. when i first saw this photo, “to the left, to the left” song came into my mind again. and i still can’t get it out…. “you must not know about me, you must not know about me”[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:]
this local paddled out with his single fin lightning bolt board and surfed like it was the 70’s. man, he had the best style….
and this is for all you bodyboarders out there. this is a drop knee power snap. i might have to bust out my morey boggie board from the 70’s and try to reminisce….
Bizarre Food Japan: Raw Horse Liver….
good morning. 5:45am thursday. solid waves on the north shore. lani’s looks 4′ and pretty dam good. but why go out there if town is going off? yeah, save gas, surf town. never heard that one in a while yeah? haha… looking at bowls and the park now. shoulder/head high with 10 guys out at bowls. and get this, the park is packed!! i lost count after 42. super packed. going to drive around and look for a wave. everybody go surf!!! get out and enjoy this beautiful day!!!
summer is here!!! check out waikiki beach yesterday. i guess this is the place to be….. nah, just joking. my sister sent me this photo. she said it’s china. crazy yeah. it would kill me if waikiki ever got like this…. and with all the chinese tourist coming these days, it could actually happen… scary…
**japan has the craziest foods. raw horse liver is just one of them. check out this clip of one of the most craziest foods i’ve ever eaten… it was at a yakiniku place in chigasaki with my good friends… a couple of them camera shy… haha…