good morning. 5:45am wed. morning. wow, north shore is going off!!! looks 3′ with perfect conditions. town came down a little. gosh, i surfed bowls yesterday afternoon on the high tide and it was going off. 4′ sets going all the way through with only a few guys out. perfect bowls… today dropped a little but might pick up again as the tide rises again. sunny skies and waves again around the island. i’m out of hea…. have a safe and nice day….
**it’s been over 10 years since we went to tonga on a surf trip for a japanese magazine. till this day, it was by far my worst experience. the waves? flat for 2 weeks. the flies? everywhere from dawn to dusk. the price? expensive, you even have to pay for tap drinking water. the weather? hotter than hot. the accomodations? not too good. i don’t really like to talk bad about resorts and surf camps so i won’t go there. but let me just say this, i won’t go there again….
the beer was pretty good. well, that’s the only brand they had….
when in tonga, do as the tongan’s do. drink kava… yeah, we must have drank 5 kilos or more. even in the morning. yeah, there was nothing else to do. this is photographer yoshiro nakayama and pro surfer taro taniuchi. two cool guys….
the coolest thing i seen was this ferris wheel. classic yeah?
this was our living space for 2 straight weeks. imagine waking up right on the beach for 14 days straight to be greeted by a flat ocean? that hurted….
and the worst part about the trip was i had a huge “boil” on my rib. i will never forget the pain i had to go through in the little dirty hospital. the lady doctor cut me open with a rusted knife and i was screaming like a girl. the most pain i ever went through in my life. that sucked.
*anyway, somehow we got enough photos for a 4 page article in surfing world magazine. taro-san wrote the article and he named it “I left my heart in Tonga”…. cool title…
I Left My Heart in Tonga….
Surfing and Eating Healthy..
good evening. woke up to overcast skies and rain. yeah!!! i was super stoked because i knew that the waves were going off and i could stay out for a long time without getting burned. met up with todd at our little secret spot. it was only us for the first hour, then it got crowded. yeah 3 other guys came out after. haha.. the waves were perfect sheet glass. it was so glassy that you couldn’t even see the wave coming in. and the water was crystal clean. ended up surfing for over 3 hours. and the only reason we came in is because we couldn’t paddle for waves anymore. my arms were like rubber…. caught 60 waves and did like 100 turns. it was the best session i had in a while. and that says a lot because i’ve been having pretty good sessions this summer… the only bummer thing was i got stung on my foot by a box jellyfish. shit it hurt. my foot is still itai… oh well, live rolls on. i hope the next swell coming this week brings clouds too. then i can surf surf and surf….
it was good to see my grandpa and grandma walking around their block this morning at 6am. it was raining so i offered them a ride home but “no thanks”. yeah, my grandma and grandpa are living a healthy life because of these daily walks. i felt bad after for even offering…. my grandma is the strongest grandma out there. she goes to the spa to workout 3x a week, and walks everyday. i remember when i was a kid, she use to put me between her legs and squeeze the heck out of me. she called it the “scissors”…. and those “indian burns” too. super grandma….
i felt like eating healthy so i went to foodland to buy some groceries. it felt so weird being a man pushing a cart around at 10am on a working day. i was the only guy in the whole store with a cart and felt a little embarrassed. all the housewives in there must have been thinking “gosh, doesn’t that guy have a job?” it’s funny because i use to shop in japan every evening for dinner. walk in the store during winter time with slippers and a tshirt. hair still sticking up from my afternoon nap. cannot speak japanese. eating the free samples everywhere in the store. and mingling with the housewives. nah, that last part was a joke. but i can still remember how they use to look at me. the look like “is this guy nuts? why can’t he speak japanese? and doesn’t he know that he’s the only one in the city wearing slippers in the winter?” haha… those were the good old days….
**by the way, i made that sandwich to have a healthy lunch. it was so good that i made another one right after. then i felt sick from eating too much. not too healthy i guess… but my afternoon nap was awesome….. whatever works right? good night…[:?????????:][:?????????:]
GO-NAMINORI @ 2 YEARS….
good morning. 5am here on this tuesday morning. south swell up. see a lot of white wash at the park so i’m guessing solid 3′ with bigger sets. no winds so perfect conditions. nobody out. well, i’m guessing that too because it’s still pitch dark. hope to be the first one in the water today. i’m out of here…. have a nice day…. oh, north shore came up too. lani’s looks pretty solid. wow, waves around the island again. best summer for north and south swells? yup… pure stoke…
wow…. can you believe go-naminori makes 2 years today? gosh, it feels so weird because it seems like we just started this not too long ago. well, 2 years isn’t that long but all the things that happened along the way happened so fast. the millions of hits, the numerous experiences, the positive vibe, and all the friends made through this website. all i have to say is “AWESOME”… some people tell me that i’m nuts to update my blog so often. in the beginning, i thought i was nuts too. but now, i really like doing it. i like to show people the wonderful life i have and the awesome friends around me. been getting so many emails from people checking the website everyday so that drives me to do more and more. i just wish i had more time…. anyway, this year we have big plans and hope to take go-naminori up another level. stay tuned…. and wanted to thank all the people around the world checking us out. yeah, been getting hits from people in australia, europe, america, bali, philippines, and a lot of third world countries. thank you, arigato gozaimasu, salamat, terima kasih, and mahalo….. and to everyone involved in go-naminori, thanks for the support and for the hard work. you guys are the best….
BIG NEWS!!! go-naminori rider Kelia Moniz won the 2008 NSSA National Championships presented by No Fear at Trestles this past weekend. oh my gosh…. and not the long board division. the short board division. so there it is: Kelia Moniz is 2008 USA National Champion…. awesome. congrats kelia and too all the other kids that represented hawaii… IMUA….
High School Women Final Results
1. Kelia Moniz
2. Coco Ho
3. Sara Taylor
4. Taylor Pitz
5. Rachel Harris
6. Alexa Dilley
**and last. went for a short town session with jun jo last week. the waves were small but good enough. hawaii wa ichiban….