good morning. 5:45am and i can smell it. yeah, i can smell the waves going off. still pitch dark but i’m out of here. if it’s anything like yesterday, it’s all good. oh, was watching the quiksilver pro yesterday online and oh my gosh. the surfing level is so high. it’s like if you can’t do an air in your heat, you won’t make it. kelly slater is on another planet. he just keeps getting better and better. unstoppable….. anyway, have a nice day…

we had a barbecue at carter’s house the other night. i went there, grabbed a chair, and the boys cooked all the food. it was nice to get served and i didn’t realize that the food tastes better that way. thanks guys. and sorry i didn’t help but i know you understand…

this was like our 3 year bali trip reunion. gerald, carter, kenji, russ, and i took a trip to bali 3 years ago and had a great time. we were talking about doing it again….

this is a photo from that bali trip. complete with a cold bintang…. gosh, that was a fun trip. can’t wait to do it again…

old time bodyboard friend erin stopped by. i knew erin back in the days when we use to surf sandy beach. 20 years ago this winter, i seen her out at big sunset beach. i thought she was pretty hardcore because i only seen her bodyboard sandy beach before. anyway, a freak 10′ set came in and broke right in front of us. after i came up, i looked for her and didn’t see her. then right as the next set was approaching, i saw her pop up and she was freaking out. her leash broke and she panicked. i threw her my board and told her not to let it go. she hung on for her life and made it safely to the beach. since that day 20 years ago, i bumped into erin 3 times. and every time i see her, she gives me a big hug and tells me “thanks for saving my life”. i think that’s pretty funny. but i guess she was serious because she hasn’t gone near sunset beach since then….

good evening, i feel like i’ve been saying this for the past month but “shit, the waves were going off today!!!” perfect surf and weather with no crowds….

once again, i pulled up to off the wall and as i was walking through the path to the beach, i seen this perfect 4′ wave peel across and spit. and get this? not one guy out….

then i look right and saw this perfect wave peeling at pipe/backdoor. like always, i don’t check it for more than a minute before i’m running back to my car to grab my board. paddled out and scored…. i caught a set at backdoor, pulled in off the take off, and was driving through the barrel. kept going and going. next thing you know, i was already at off the wall. i tried to squeek out but the lip caught me at the end. by far my longest barrel of the year… and the whole time i was in the barrel, it was just me and the crystal lip going over my head. no photographers or bodyboarders getting in the way. that’s how empty it was… after that, you couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. and i’m still smiling… i love surfing….

after i came in, i was looking down the beach at the little sandbar. it was as beautiful as it gets. i just couldn’t resist….

this is mermaid aoi koike. 10X japan champ and 2008 pipeline pro champ….

and check this out. this is a hawaiian monk seal having the beach to himself…. one month ago, this beach would be lined by 100 photographers, pro surfers from all over the world, girls in g-strings, and a lot of stress. i can’t believe i made it through that. i’d rather have it the way it was today. there was nobody… gosh, it was beautiful. and the good news is, it’s going to be like this for a while more…. so get your ass out of your house and enjoy this island we call “paradise”…..[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:?????????:][:?????????:][:??????:][:??????:][:????????$B!r(B:][:????????$B!r(B:][:??????:][:??????:]
**by the way, kelly slater vs. mick fanning surfing in the final at snapper rocks right now…. it’s going to be a good heat. don’t miss it…

KELLY SLATER VS. ANDY IRONS COMING SOON…. CLICK HERE FOR LIVE QUIKSILVER PRO FINAL DAY….