i haven’t gone diving in a very long time but Mayuki is fully gassed up and ready for anything. once all the variables come together, i’m there!
Maki-san sent me this photo of a Mu i speared. they have molars like human beings! it would be pretty painful to get bit from this guy.
over 20 years ago, i boarded the Beqa Princess with Team Dove. we were searching the South Pacific for 2 weeks looking for new waves and new experiences.
we pulled up to this island called Nagigia. we made friends with the owner of the island and he let us stay there for free! it was our home for some amazing days of surfing, and amazing nights of Kava. in fact, the name of the article in the surfing magazine was “Kava Party!” i drew out this map of our remote private island. it was the best setup you could ever ask for.
after a couple of days into our trip, we ran out of beer! so we chartered an airplane and had 15 cases flown into an island 1 hour away. i remember i was one of the guys sent on the dingy to go get it. when we returned to our boat with the beer, everybody was screaming and yelling because we where so happy! haha. that was my best memory of that trip. other than that, we just surfed, surfed, and surfed. here is just one of many perfect waves that i was so fortunate to ride. i remember telling myself that night “Life is Good!” and yes, it still is…
sometimes i start earlier, sometimes i start later. it all depends on Mother Nature. i knew it was going to be a chilly morning so we started later. and it was perfect because the sun popped out and warmed us all up. any earlier than this would have been too cold!
look how blue the sky was! and we had the whole beach to ourselves! i tell everybody, “pay attention on the beach because once you paddle out, you will forget everything i taught you.” haha. yeah, it always happens.
the conditions were absolutely perfect for our level of surfers. super calm and very fun waves. nothing to freak out about. here are the 6 of us hanging out in the sea. nobody came near us because they were too scared. haha.
throwing the thumbs up. i like to see this because it shows some confidence. and confidence is very important in surfing.
and love the smooth rides all the way in. look how beautiful it was!
if you challenge yourself to surf, your life will only get better.
and double the shaka means double the pleasure.
turning left on your very first surf session. amazing.
side shot looking at Waikiki.
calm and cool is pretty dam cool.
bend your knees and looking forward is the key to surfing success. perfect!
and yes, the smiles went on like this all day. thank you again boys for the wonderful day! keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
Breakfast time. Itadakimasu!
Good morning 6am.
North shore 6’ from the North. Laniakea best but still bumpy.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and clean.
North winds at 15mph.
Sunny and cool.
Have a wonderful day!