It was so good to stop by the Dove Factory in Shonan.  When I use to live in Fujisawa, I use to go here every day.  Tokura-san would take me to lunch, I would order wetsuits, and just hang out there all day.  BUT when Tokura-san got the call for the surf report, we would drop everything we’re doing and go surfing.  32 years later, I still drop everything when the waves are good and go surfing.  I’m sure he still does too.  So yes, that’s when surfing became my #1 priority in life.  And it will be forever.

Tokura-san’s also been so kind all these years to let me use what ever car he has at the time.  Without a car in Japan, you will be very limited.  This van gave us the freedom to roam.

The first 2 days of snowboarding was pretty dangerous.   It was so foggy that you could barely see a few feet in front of you.  Going to the highest peak of the mountain and just dropping into the unknown was a little freaky for me.  My brother and I were using all rental gear and wear so I had no idea what to expect.  I planned to go slow but when I saw my brother just go straight down the mountain as fast as he could, I had to follow.  I thought I wasn’t competitive anymore but I guess I was wrong.  Haha.

Coming from the ocean everyday of my life, the time in the mountains is very refreshing.  The air is clean, the snow is beautiful, and nothing beats speeding down an empty mountain with your brother by your side.  Thank you Tokura-san for always sharing your secret spots with me.

Outside Waikiki Playground.

Good morning 4:50am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high wind swell.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Before the contest at Margaret River, Seth Moniz was ranked 24 in the world and only the Top 22 would requalify after this event.  Seth hasn’t really done good at Margaret River so yes, I was a little worried.  Well, I mean a lot worried.  If he didn’t make the Top 22, our hearts would be broken.  I watched every event this year LIVE so for this one, I didn’t want to watch it because win or lose, my emotions would be at an all time high.  I was traveling so I would have to probably have to watch his heats in the car, train, hotel, or where ever I was.  Every heat he surfed I would be yelling or screaming very loud.  So loud that the somebody would probably call the Japanese police on me.  Anyway, the contest finishes, I didn’t check my emails or texts, and I just waited until I was in a hotel where I wouldn’t get kicked out of.  I watched every heat by heat and was screaming my head off.  OMG, Seth made the semi-finals!  His best result of the year and he requalified for the tour.  He jumped up to #13 which is really good.

On one of his interviews, he said “sorry mom and dad for making you stress out and lose hair.”  Yes, I know how that feels.  I stressed out all year and lost half of my hair on my head.

Seth’s performance was the best it gets.  He beat Griffin Colapinto, Conner O’Leary, Ethan Ewing, and Jordy Smith.  A huge confidence booster Seth needed and now he’s going to excel.  So stoked for you Seth, and so proud of you.