Living Local Style

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had an awesome time with the awesome Inaba-san family from LA. all first time surfers and all pretty nervous. but once the nerves settled down, perfect waves were ridden!
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Koki-kun is only 13 years old and has a great life ahead. speaking and writing both perfect japanese and english, this kid has many opportunities coming ahead. add great balance and coordination, you have yourself a perfect kid.
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Hiromi-san was the most nervous. but she put the nerves aside and surfed her first wave of her life. great job!
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Masa-san was the most stoked on surfing. he wanted more and more! always smiling throughout the whole ride. it was so fun watching him have a great time.
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the perfect happy face!
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once Masa-san got the technique down, he surfed absolutely perfect.
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and Koki-kun had the longest rides of the day. just kept on going, going, and going.
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surfing together will make any relationship golden. something you can’t experience on land.
then we got hungry so went to eat a poke bowl. first time for all 3 of them and i’m glad they liked it. thank you guys for the wonderful day!
if you have the courage to live the local lifestyle, i highly recommend it. forget waikiki, live the real life. the Inaba-san family living the local life and loving it. keep on surfing guys!

Magic Board Cutback!

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so stoked to see my longtime friend Lance Hookano yesterday in the water. Lance is a true waterman and one pretty heavy local surfer. i’m glad he’s my friend because if he wasn’t, i’d be scared when he paddles out. you wouldn’t want those big hawaiian hands landing on your face.
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cutbacks are fun and really easy to do. the key is where you look. first, you have to have enough speed to complete one so go as fast as possible.
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then set the rail pushing your back foot as the gas pedal, and the front foot as your steering wheel. and yes, always look where you want to go. lots of people look down here and that’s why they fall down. the key is to look up.
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keep the rail in the water because thats where all your speed is coming from.
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then it’s time to step on the gas. i step pretty hard so i close my eyes and push as hard as i can. the harder you push, the faster you will come around.
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then if you want to make it fancier, just push harder on the tail and slide it as much as you want.
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then the key is to keep your knees bent throughout the whole cutback. if you don’t, you won’t be able to come back around.
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then the rebound. get more speed and do another one if you want. so easy and feel so good!
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it’s been 4 days since the heavy rain and dirty water, but the signs are still up. i think the city workers are too busy surfing to take it down. haha. if it’s there tomorrow, i’m going to throw it in the truck, and post it everyday i feel like surfing by myself. haha.
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water looks dirty to you? not to me. seen some crystal barrels these past few days. wish you were there. or maybe glad you weren’t. empty summer lineups continue.