had a great time with Yamaguchi-san and Kotomi-san yesterday afternoon. two young newlyweds enjoying their first trip to hawaii, and also enjoying their first time in the hawaiian ocean.
it was Kotomi-san’s first time surfing so i told her what i tell everyone. LOOK FORWARD!
and she stood up on her very first wave of her life! omg, so stoked!
another happy newborn surfer girl!
Yamaguchi-san is a short boarder but because the waves were small, i let him try my longboard. and once he got use to it, he caught some amazing long waves!
super cool surfer from Kagoshima.
another awesome ride!
thank you Yamaguchi-san and Kotomi-san for the wonderful afternoon. i’m surprised how energetic you both are! we surfed for so long!!! haha.
imagine coming to hawaii for the first time and trying to order at a local plate lunch window. it makes me remember the first time i did this in japan. it was such a freaky experience! haha. good job guys. hope you enjoyed your locomoco!
Peace! I’m going freedom diving today!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 3-5’ and good!
Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and windy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and cool day.
Going surfing and free diving!
Have a wonderful day!
if you want to meet one of the most happiest surfers in the world, meet Dr. Hara-san. i really like surfing with him because he just surfs, smiles, and enjoys each ride by ride.
and the waves were supposed to be flat today? i saw a guy in the parking lot and he told me he wasn’t going to surf because the waves were too small. he went home, we went surfing. i felt sorry for him. haha.
once again, one of the most happiest surfer in the world.
Dr. Hara-san caught a full years worth of waves. i’d say he rode a total distance of 3 kilometers. and paddled for about 4. perfect rides!
nice to see Angela out there too. another one of the most happiest surfers in the world.
then went to pick up Dr. Hara-san’s beautiful family for lunch. so happy to see everybody enjoying the hot pho! can you believe i ate vietnam food for the past 4 days in a row? i love it!
Mili-chan and Kai-chan enjoying the cool shave ice. two beautiful happy girls!
when you hang out with Dr. Hara-san, you get his positive energy to smile. and it makes everyone smile too. gosh, i would love if he was my own doctor because mine don’t smile at all. haha. thank you guy and girls for the lovely morning!
then went to take a nap in Mayuki before my marathon afternoon session with the newlyweds Mr. and Mrs. Yamaguchi-san. great nap, and greater surfing after the nap. scored another perfect day in paradise again!
i have the next 3 days off so i’ll be pretty much everywhere doing everything. haha. i spent 6 hours in the water today and i wouldn’t be surprised if i spend more than that tomorrow. we shall see…