spent the morning in the ocean. so cool, so calm, and so relaxing… then went to fill up gas for Mayuki. so far, so smelly, and so expensive! haha. i guess sometimes you have to pay to play!
so on the way back right outside Waikiki, i did a quick spearfishing lesson on board. i didn’t do a good job by spearing this huge Moana Kali in the body, but i’ll eat it so it’s ok. i haven’t seen a big one like this in a long time and i can’t wait to put it in the steamer!
September is usually the month when the bigger tako start coming to the more shallow water. so i checked this little patch of rocks in the middle of the sea where tako love to hide in holes. i saw a total of 8, but i only took 3. that’s my new tako refrigerator because i know they will be there every time i go!
want to thank Tsujimoto-san for sending me the selfie stick photo! you surfed so good!
i’ve ridden over a thousand surfboards in my life. nothing scary about testing any of them out. on the other hand, i’ve ridden only 10 foil boards in my life. and each time i try a new one, it’s freaking so scary! so scary because one mistake can send me to the hospital.
so when i jumped on my first wave with the brand new Schaper, i was nervous for the first second, then it instantly felt like a perfect fit.
then after i did my first cutback, everything came into place. i really felt like i could do anything!
i let my friend Carter try it too and same thing. first wave so smooth and perfect.
we had such a good time experimenting with new equipment. it felt like the days we were 12 years old surfing out at Portlock together till sunset. it’s crazy how something never change…
feeling like 2 birds flying over the ocean with so much freedom!
thank you again Carl Schaper for making foiling not so scary, and so much more exciting!
also want to thank Ishikawa-san for the cool Japanese face masks! i need it so much after my 10 hour surf days!
and thank you Michi-san for the snack! i need it so much for a snack between surfs.
and thank you Michi-san’s Mother for the somen. i need it so much because i love somen so much!
Welcome to the land of Colorful Rainbows!
Good morning 6:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. No South swell yet.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Have a wonderful day!