Mega Padang!

July 30th, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

yeah Mega!!!! i’m so proud of you!!!! congratulations!!!!

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Ahi in Freezer!

July 29th, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

surfing is booming! even Paris Hilton has her own surfboard. but from the looks of it, i bet you it doesn’t ride good. in surfing, we call people like this “Poser!” or in japanese, we call it “Okasurfer.” embarrassing. haha.
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another typhoon swell coming next week and thankfully i’ll be gone. i just don’t have the energy to chase another typhoon on this trip. my body is still sore from all that surfing and driving. if it wasn’t for Katsura-san’s awesome massage yesterday, i’d be going home in a wheelchair.
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anywhere in the world, it’s always best to travel alone. most locals respect that. if i were to pull up to a local spot with 10 hungry surfers in the van, i wouldn’t be welcomed too much here in japan. pretty much common sense.
driving through oshika hanto in tohoku is always amazing. to see new things getting built makes me happy. this tree house caught my eye and someday i would like to stay there.
positive people keep me positive. Kimura-san just ordered a new big boat and i can’t wait to see it! i wish i could name it for him because if i could, i would name it “The Last Samurai.”
i walked into the Kimura-san family freezer and stumbled upon tuna after tuna. imagine having a freezer like this, waking up one morning, pull out a tuna, and eat it for dinner. it’s a great way to live and hopefully someday my life will be like that. the first thing i’m going to buy when i get back to hawaii is a big freezer.
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i can straight up say “i scored this typhoon in japan!” i was at the right place at the right time. thank you again to all my surf info brothers here in japan! you made me a very happy man!
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riding a wave with friends as the sun starts to rise. one of the best feelings in the world!

well, trying to go back to hawaii tomorrow. another long journey home but with all these memories, i’m very satisfied. i learned so much more about myself and the most important is: keep positive, keep happy, keep smiling, keep friends, and keep surfing!”

Super Best Oden Center

July 29th, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

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it seems like i left hawaii months ago. time just flies but it’s only been a week? weird? the last thing i remember was working everyday and doing what i love, which is teaching surfing. Tae-san surfed on a pretty big day and did so well. much more confidence for this girl and it’s showing in her surfing.
then Akaike-san, Azusa-san, and i surfed right before i caught my flight here to japan. the waves were super fun and i am still amazed by the motivation and energy from these two lovely ladies. amazing!
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i never use to like tokyo too much. why? because i didn’t know where to go. now, i get taken to the best of the best tokyo has to offer and now, i can honestly say that “i love tokyo!” welcome to Ginza!
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we went to eat at this oden restaurant in ginza that has been here for 70 years. i usually eat oden from lawson so coming here is always a treat. the best of the best!
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oden and draft beer go very well together. daikon, egg, and minced fish.
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rolled cabbage, scallop, and fishcake on a stick. when you take a bite, the juices flow!!! so good!

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i use to read guide books about japan and there was always a “warning to tourist section.” it said not to eat at restaurants where there are no prices on the menu. it states that if you do, don’t be surprised when the check comes. scary! haha.
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want to thank Inaida-san and Yuki-san for the wonderful night out in tokyo! i really appreciate your kindness!

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  • カービー福永 – Kirby Fukunaga -

    カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -
    ハワイオアフ島出身。1990年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM 5時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。1日10,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。