Minami-chan is one of the few young surfers that i don’t have that much advise for. she can surf super good, she has amazing wave knowledge, she doesn’t fall, and she is totally focused. so the only thing i said to her before she paddled out to Diamond Head yesterday evening was “go out there, paddle to every peak, and catch every wave possible. then you will figure out that spot pretty easily.”
i’m sitting in the inside waiting for a wave. then 2 girls paddle out and sit right in the inside of me. they start talking to each other and don’t have a clue about surfing mannerism. a wave comes, i paddle for it, the girls sandwich me, and i fall. i hope i’m not a beginner for too much longer.
so i will keep practicing and focusing until i can wait on the outside and graduate from the inside.
as the sun started to set, i was watching Minami-chan get some amazing rides. if i had my telephoto lens, i would have gotten a cover shot for sure.
Hayato getting good on the foil. super fast learner and i’m sure he will be ripping it up in Okinawa very soon.
i foiled Bowls this morning for 3 hours. came in and was going to eat and take a nap. checked my voicemail and Tony and Micah leave separate messages. both saying that i should drop everything i had planned and go foil with them. so i dropped everything, grabbed a sandwich, and headed on the 1 hour drive.
pulled up and the waves were amazing! seen some of the boys out there ripping it up. i saw John John Florence ride a 2 minute long wave doing 50 turns. then more of the boys started pulling up and it was a full on pro surfer session.
John Amundson and Micah Moniz. both amazing foilers and both giving me much needed advise.
i rode a 1 minute 30 second wave with Micah all the way from the outside to the beach. ended up catching 8 more and i was dead tired. it was a great learning experience for me as i watched every single detail and applied it to my own foil. now i feel like i went up a level and ready for bigger and better things. can’t wait!
wow! Ito-san ripping it up yesterday at Ala Moana. waves were pretty good and not too many people out. score!
Ito-san’s been surfing for 11 years. super focused and super smooth.
gosh, i just love photos like this. look at the beautiful turn and the beautiful morning clouds.
thanks for the wonderful time! keep on smiling!
my favorite hulihuli chicken plate for lunch. i can’t believe this only costs $8!
i asked Ito-san what he’s going to do on this trip. he said he is planning to go to Lanikai Beach to swim. then i told him about the recent sewage spill. yes, 9,000,000 gallons or 34,000,000 liters of shit overflowed into the ocean on the East side! and i’m sure a lot of tourists don’t know about that. they must be thinking “wow, Lanikai is empty! lucky!” haha.
went to Diamond Head in the evening. i saw a surfboard floating in the ocean. then a guy swam out 5 minutes later to retrieve his board. then right after, the lifeguards pulled up. somebody called 911 and reported a missing surfer. i knew they came for that so i told them the guy swam out to get his surfboard. they looked relieved. thank you for our lifeguards for always coming to the rescue.
gosh, the waves were so good that we stayed out till dark. didn’t want to miss this!
then came home to the sweet gardenias. a lovely way to end a sweet day…
Yesterday@Sunset@DH. Hayato Maki flying!
Good morning 6:30am.
North shore chest high and clean.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
East wind at 15mph.
Clouds, rain, and maybe storm.
Have a wonderful day!