Good Food, Good Friends

May 30th, 2015 | by kirbyfukunaga

i had a great time with Dr. Sato-san yesterday. known Sato-san for a long time and always super fun to surf together.
kind of knew the winds would come early again so we went out earlier just in case. it was super perfect conditions in the morning and we had a little small inside peak to ourselves. Sato-san caught so many perfect long lefts. and ripping!
it was such a beautiful morning! thank you Sato-san for the super fun surf session. have a safe flight back to shikoku and like always, “see you soon!”
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seen Tiare out too. one of the most positive people in the world.
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Troy is a local at Bowls. out surfing every single day and catching the best waves.
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catching the best waves and smacking the lip! sick photo!
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got some nice photos from the other day at diamond head. it’s so funny how small this island is. you just never know when and where your friend will paddle out. Maki-san also knew that diamond head was the best spot that day.
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look how beautiful hawaii is! omg, it freaks me out when i come home and see the photos. it’s been the best weather so far for a summer. best weather and best waves. gosh, i love this place!
then the evening comes. totally heavy sun rays beaming down on us. i have dinner with my friends and one of them says “good food, good friends.” i drive home with the biggest smile on my face. good food, good friends. that’s the key to a great life. so i want to take this time to thank all my friends for just being my friend. if it wasn’t for you guys, i’d be nothing. mahalos.

then i get home late, start replying to emails, and wake up with my forehead on my keyboard. i totally fell asleep in front of my computer on my desk. i don’t remember a thing. no, i wasn’t drunk, i was super tired. super tired and super happy. have a wonderful day!

May 29, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report

May 30th, 2015 | by gonaminori

I’m not moving!

Good morning 5:34am.
South swell continues.
Chest high and perfect at Ala Moana.
Diamond Head head high and perfect.
No winds so glassy conditions everywhere.
BIG South swell on Monday. 6′ plus!
Super sunny and warm day.
No sun today because sunburnt.
Have a wonderful day!

Duck Family Dinner

May 29th, 2015 | by kirbyfukunaga

went to check out the ducks yesterday on the way to my sisters house. always there.
and they think they own the street.
local style dinner @ the Moniz house.
Atsuko-san made niku udon and that turned out to be the favorite of the night. it’s so funny how hawaiians love japanese food so much. and it’s so funny that Joshua is half japanese but looks full hawaiian. haha.
the Kimura-san family and the Akudo-san family as guests. before we ate, my sister said a few words. she said to them “i want to thank you very much for taking care of my brother Kirby.” that meant a lot to me. made me realize again how lucky i am to have such good friends in my life. i’m very very thankful. great food, great beer, great talk, and great laughs. thank you to the Moniz family for always opening their beautiful house to everyone. true hawaiian style.

check out this photo 6 years ago in bali. Kimura-san and the Moniz’s in bali. always been my dream to connect hawaiians to japanese. i’m living in the dream world right now! let’s make it bigger and better!

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  • カービー福永 – Kirby Fukunaga –

    カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -
    ハワイオアフ島出身。1990年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM 5時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。1日10,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。




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