The Art of Wipeout!

September 2nd, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

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had a great time with this wonderful couple today. it is Mr. and Mrs. Kawanishi-san’s first time leaving japan. first time to hawaii. first time to surf a reef break. the waves were perfect again today! great surfing Masato-san and Yukie-san!
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and first time acai bowl from The Health Cove! thank you for a wonderful day! enjoy the rest of your trip in beautiful hawaii and hope you come back again!
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we surfed Bowls but Diamond Head looked really good too. but for me, it’s a too long hike, and a too long paddle. i’m getting lazy. haha.
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you couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day than today. just perfect summer weather!!!
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if you watched Hawaii Skin Diver TV this month, you would have seen this video of Kyle, Brent, and I catching this ono. it seemed like years ago but it was pretty recent.
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team work is key in fishing. Kyle with the gaff.
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catching the fish is the easy part, cleaning the boat is the hard part. too much maintenance in fishing so that’s why i have no urge to do it again. maybe on somebody else’s boat? haha.
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when ever i hunt, all i think about is the wonderful fresh dinners ahead. ahi fever season is pretty much done in hawaii so i’m going to oil my fishing poles and put them in the closet.
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there is an art to anything, including a wipeout. Yuki-san charges big waves and when things go wrong, she knows exactly what to do. jump to the side, hold on to your hat, and protect your head. this is the safest way to wipeout and we can all learn from this photo. wipeout safe!
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i was driving up kapahulu avenue when i seen 2 shiny buns glaring in my sunglasses. i get closer and found out this girl was on the back of a motorcycle wearing a thong!!! OMG! 10 years ago you could get arrested for something like this. nowadays, it’s pretty much normal. welcome to paradise. haha!

South Shore Big Wave Challenge!

September 2nd, 2014 | by kirbyfukunaga

yesterday was a game changer. Nakamoto-san normally surfs at small isounora beach in japan. last year when he came to hawaii, i took him out to rock piles and it was shoulder high, the biggest he’s ever surfed. then yesterday, the waves were overhead and a totally new level. i could see him very nervous on the beach. i kept telling him, “it’s ok, you can do it. let’s go.” then after 3 times i said “let’s go”, he finally put on his leash. if anybody knows the feeling of fear before paddling out in big waves, it’s me. been there many times and if it wasn’t for all the people that encouraged me to challenge myself, i wouldn’t be the person i am today. i don’t just teach surfing, i teach people not to underestimate themselves.
so we paddle out in silence, and a lot slower than usual. that’s how i can tell someone is nervous. Nakamoto-san turns around half way and tries to paddle for a wave. i say “STOP!, paddle more out, paddle, paddle!!” gosh, i should have been an army sergeant. haha.
we start with the medium size waves to get the confidence going. so far, so good. then wave after wave, i kept on saying “ok, let’s go bigger!” by the end of the session, Nakamoto-san was riding head high waves and surfing it perfectly all the way in.
no nerves anymore, just a surfer filled with happiness and confidence. great job Nakamoto-san! take your confidence back to isounora and keep on charging!!!
i just transferred over to my computer 1,302 photos and 94 videos from my last trip. i was amazed on how many awesome photos there were. it’s going to take me a long time to go through them and sort things out, but i know i’ll have fun doing it. yeah, i can relive the experience again! check out this amasan, he’s 83 years old!!! very healthy, very happy, and very nice smile. and he can hold his breath longer than me. i realized more and more how the ocean can keep a person young in body, and young in heart. i’m pretty sure this grandpa will be diving into his 90′s and i’ll be back there over and over to check him out!

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  • カービー福永 – Kirby Fukunaga -

    カービー福永 - Kirby Fukunaga -
    ハワイオアフ島出身。1990年から世界を巡るプロサーファーとして雑誌、TV、ラジオなど多くメディアに露出している。ハワイ大学を主席で卒業後、日本に住んでいたこともある親日家。流暢な日本語も話し、ネイティブなアロハスピリットの持ち主で世界中に仲間も多い。AM 5時には、海をチェックしてノースショアなどハワイのその日一番良いポイントでサーフする毎日を送っている。最高位のライフガードライセンスを全て取得しており、日本人観光客に向けたハワイガイドも行う。ここ数年は雑誌の表紙の撮影や水中撮影など、プロフォトグラファーとしての顔も見せる。また、スキンダイブのスキルも高く、ウォーターマンとしての評価も高い。1日10,000人前後のアクセスがある人気サイト。ハワイと日本を結ぶサーフィン情報サイト 『 GO NAMINORI 』 の設立者でもある。今まで日本人にサポートしてもらった恩返しとして、サーファーができる東北復興支援プロジェクト 『 WE ARE ONE 』 の代表も務めている。