My little cute grandnephew…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3-5′ and stormy onshore.
Ala Moana knee and offshore.
Diamond Head waist high and offshore.
North winds at 20mph.
Rainy and cloudy day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  North shore head high and perfect.

Nice rights, clean water, sunny sky, and big Mighty Mouse cutbacks!

Tony sent me these screenshots.  I guess Paul Gordinho posted it.  These were the good old days at Backdoor.  I have probably logged in over a thousand sessions with hundreds of barrels.  I surfed there so much that it started to feel comfortable.  But a couple near death experiences out there made me feel uncomfortable again.  That’s what this spot can do to you so you must respect it.

Pro surfer/Lifeguard Dave Wassel once said “there are 2 kinds of surfers who surf at Backdoor.  One already hit the reef.  And the other one is going to hit the reef.

Pro surfer/World champion BJJ Kaiborg Garcia once said “if you can catch waves at Backdoor, you can catch waves at any spot around the world.”