
Round 1: Atsushi-san at Bowls.

Round 1: Atsushi-san at Bowls.

This fish is called “Oio” or bonefish. It’s very unique in a way where the meat is very soft and so are the hundreds of bones. The best way to get the meat off is by using a spoon. It takes a lot of work but when it’s all done, it’s worth it. 
I was scraping and scraping trying not to waste anything. Recently, I’ve been wearing gloves when cleaning fish so I don’t have to sleep with stinky hands. 
Look how beautiful the meat is! Now you mix in onion, macadamia nuts, sesame oil, salt, chili pepper, and shoyu. 
You eat it raw just like this. Lomi oio is my favorite poke in the world! 
It’s always my goal to get a shot like this. But it’s very risky because taking off behind someone and following so closely is dangerous. I’ve had people cutback right into me. I’ve had people fall and shoot their board at me. So flying down the wave trying to keep up with Roy was a challenge. But as I saw that section coming, I knew exactly what he was going to do. I trust him so I stick out my camera and get this beautiful shot. One of the best photos I’ve taken in a very long time.

Yesterday once more: Overhead northeast swell with perfect conditions!
Good morning 4:10am.
North shore shoulder high from the east.
Ala Moana waist high from the east.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and clouds. Big storm coming.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!