Boat, airplane, sun, and surfer…

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore 2-4′ and bumpy.
Ala Moana head high and onshore.
Diamond Head overhead and onshore.
Strong southwest winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, haze, and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  I drove to look at the ocean this morning and when I saw the overhead swells coming from the west, I remembered a spot that only works on swells like this.  I drive 40 minutes, paddle out 40 minutes, and we’re there all alone.  The most perfect overhead barrels, sharp reef, and memorable rides.

We surfed for a couple of hours all to ourselves.  Paddled 40 minutes back in, drove 50 minutes and I was home.  I haven’t surfed this spot in 6 years and when the next west swell comes, I’m straight back there.  I felt like an out of country surf trip today.

Round 2:  It was so fun surfing this afternoon at Bowls.  Onshore winds and very challenging.  

Sawadzu-san caught some really nice and long rides.

64 years old and surfing like a young boy.  Perfect style!

Yesterday once more:  West swell wrap looking good!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 6-8′ and good. Pipeline Pro on!
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
No wind so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm after a cool morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!