Wednesday April22日 2026年

Technique vs. Power: How to Smash the Lip

1:  Keep low, arms up, and look in the direction you want to go.

2:  As you approach the lip of the wave, still keep low, put your arms up, and lift high.  This is the important part because if your arms aren’t up like this, your surfboard won’t go up.

3:  As your surfboard is hitting the lip of the wave, it’s time to transition back down.  Left hand points back to the beach, right hand goes horizontal with your surfboard.

4:  At this point, you want to extend your back knee and push as hard as you can.  This is the only place on the wave where you push your back foot at 90% and your front foot only steers the board at 10%.  

5:  Follow through and be confident.  This is where many give up and fall.  Keep on your feet, be confident, and you will be surprised how easy this turn is.

6:  Complete a turn like this and you can raise your hands in glory.  Try it and I’m sure you will like it!

Rocky riding a 6’4 x 20″ x 43L Trinx.  This board is not that easy to push like that.  It takes technique more than power.  Even some men can’t turn a big board like that.  It’s all technique.

April 21, 2026 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday morning once more:  Jerome on fire!

Super good surfing.

Yesterday’s heat winner.

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Best of Life

Monday morning:  Bigger, cleaner, and better than yesterday.  Katazume-san on the best waves of his life.

Nice take off.  Long left.  And very uncrowded.

We scored this morning!

A happy surfer having the session of his life.

So many accidents recently.  Please drive safe.

Working today on the small details.

Another pre cooked meal.  Tonight will be filet mignon with sweet potato and roasted brussel sprouts.  Thank you to my new chef!