Monthly Archives: May 2016

Bethany Hamilton – 2016 WSL Fiji Pro


there is absolutely no fairy tale story better than this one. Bethany Hamilton got attacked by a shark in 2003. she lost her arm. one month later, she was surfing. then she won the national championships, then she had a baby, and now, she is beating the worlds best in fiji. she beat Tyler Wright, Stephanie Gilmore, Nikki Van Dijk, and others for a 3rd place finish. i was watching the contest in total disbelief. i’m a surfer, i surfed taverna before, and i know how hard it is out there. lots of water moving, strong currents, strong winds, and a very powerful wave. i couldn’t believe how she took off on those big waves with one arm? and how she duck dove under those waves with one arm? that is nearly impossible for most surfers, but Bethany’s heart and hard work proves that anything is possible. a true inspiration for the world!

i’m totally speechless. and so are many others. a true role model of “anything is possible.”
PHOTOS: © WSL/ Sloane
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qtwkn86rNk[/youtube]

Black Bean Root Beer?

omg, i spent 9 hours at the beach yesterday!! no wonder why i’m so fried!
Screen Shot 2016-05-30 at 1.28.43 PM
so good to surf with Abe-san again. he only surfs when he comes to hawaii so i couldn’t believe how good he got. i asked Abe-san, “how do you get good at surfing if you don’t surf while you’re in japan?” he answered “i surf in my dreams.” haha.
Screen Shot 2016-05-30 at 1.30.01 PM
it’s the first time i met a surfer that surfs in his dreams. getting better and better every time he comes to hawaii. awesome job Abe-san!
Screen Shot 2016-05-30 at 1.32.39 PM
i’m going to start to surf in my dreams more often. then maybe i can really do a hang 10 sometime soon.
Screen Shot 2016-05-30 at 1.32.12 PM
long boarded and short boarded yesterday. it feels great just riding a wave!
Screen Shot 2016-05-30 at 1.33.32 PM
thank you Abe-san for the wonderful surf! i am very impressed with your surfing level as it goes up and up. you should write a book on how to get better without actually surfing. that’s amazing!
IMG_9813
had a great black bean seafood noodle lunch.
IMG_9814
i love this place!
IMG_9821
and just as i was speaking about root beer shave ice, Abe-san wanted to eat it. he’s one of the very few japanese i know that likes root beer. after a hot surf session, delicious noodle lunch, the root beer shave ice was the icing on the cake.

May 30, 2016 Hawaii Surf Report


Good morning everyone!!!
6am. Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Last day of Surf into Summer ON!
No wind so perfect conditions.
Diamond Head going off!
North shore small swell too.
Super sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!