surfing is booming! even Paris Hilton has her own surfboard. but from the looks of it, i bet you it doesn’t ride good. in surfing, we call people like this “Poser!” or in japanese, we call it “Okasurfer.” embarrassing. haha.
another typhoon swell coming next week and thankfully i’ll be gone. i just don’t have the energy to chase another typhoon on this trip. my body is still sore from all that surfing and driving. if it wasn’t for Katsura-san’s awesome massage yesterday, i’d be going home in a wheelchair.
anywhere in the world, it’s always best to travel alone. most locals respect that. if i were to pull up to a local spot with 10 hungry surfers in the van, i wouldn’t be welcomed too much here in japan. pretty much common sense.
driving through oshika hanto in tohoku is always amazing. to see new things getting built makes me happy. this tree house caught my eye and someday i would like to stay there.
positive people keep me positive. Kimura-san just ordered a new big boat and i can’t wait to see it! i wish i could name it for him because if i could, i would name it “The Last Samurai.”
i walked into the Kimura-san family freezer and stumbled upon tuna after tuna. imagine having a freezer like this, waking up one morning, pull out a tuna, and eat it for dinner. it’s a great way to live and hopefully someday my life will be like that. the first thing i’m going to buy when i get back to hawaii is a big freezer.
i can straight up say “i scored this typhoon in japan!” i was at the right place at the right time. thank you again to all my surf info brothers here in japan! you made me a very happy man!
riding a wave with friends as the sun starts to rise. one of the best feelings in the world!
well, trying to go back to hawaii tomorrow. another long journey home but with all these memories, i’m very satisfied. i learned so much more about myself and the most important is: keep positive, keep happy, keep smiling, keep friends, and keep surfing!”
