North & South

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wake up 6 am to the birds.
check the waves like a surfer.
drive down my street into a rainbow.
pick up yuka-san like i’m supposed to.
surf bowls for 1.5 hours and didn’t want to come out.
drive to the north shore as it’s been a long time.
haleiwa farmers market for the first time and impressed.
pick the biggest coconut and sip on the sweet milk.
head to wailua for the best fried chicken on the island.
drive back to town falling asleep.
stop by costco to get some bread and granola.
head to bowls for an afternoon high tide offshore session.
surf 2 hours and had a blast.
drive to halekulani hotel and get greeted with water from surf buddies.
head home wondering how the waves will be tomorrow.
typing this blog with my sunburned shoulders and red eyes.
going to eat a big dinner and call it a night.
as i fall asleep, i’m very thankful for this wonderful day.
as i wake up tomorrow morning, same thing.
the waves decides my day so i won’t know my plan until tomorrow.
hope your day was as exciting and fulfilling as mine.
goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide