The Ultimate Connection: Board, Ocean, and Oneself…

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Opps, I forgot to post this on Mar 16, 2022 at 05:22.  

Legend surfer Chuck Andrews has been with Dove Wetsuits for the past 30 plus years.  the wetsuit on the left was custom made over 25 years ago and he still uses it everyday.  the wetsuits on the right are new ones that will last him another 25 years.  that goes to show you the quality of Dove.  nothing compares…

when i was in Chucks garage, i saw this 8’6 Pipeline gun hanging from his wall.  i told him “I WANT THAT BOARD!!  I’LL BUY IT RIGHT NOW!!!”  he said “NO WAY!”  haha.  so i’m going to order my own custom 8’6 Pipeline gun from Chuck next week!  i feel like paddling into a 20′ wave with this board.  should be easy!  

i stress to my students that if you want to be a very good surfer, you have to be able to ride anything on any given day.  most surfers can’t do that so we train hard to do the almost impossible.  try to ride a 9’2 classic longboard on one wave…

then a 5’10 high performance short board on the next wave.  not too many people can connect to board, ocean, and oneself that easily.  this young girl already has it mastered!  

check out my new Trinx 5’10!  this board will probably go to Indonesia with me!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide