Backside Attack!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny with lots of rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

今朝ボウルズへ行ったら思った通りだったよ。スモールでパーフェクト！こういう日が大好きなんだよね。

それからアフターヌーンセッションへ行ったんだ。海は真っ青だったよ！

海に眠っている僕たちの大好きな人を訪ねに行ったんだ。

それから僕たちは海に眠っている大好きな人と何本か波をキャッチしたんだ。それは僕たちが超コネクトしている気分なんだ！

(翻訳: タナカ　チヨコ)

opps, forgot to post:

Monday:  i went out to foil with the North Shore boys.  then after a few waves, i sat on the inside and let the boys fly by me.  this is the view i had.  isn’t it so amazing?  

Tuesday:  i went to Big Rights and i was alone for a while.  then a guy paddled out and it was just the 2 of us.  look how glassy the water surface was.  can you imagine 6′ barrels with these conditions?  i wouldn’t believe it either…

Wednesday:  that’s today so wait until tonight to see what i got with my lens.  i’m really liking to shoot photos again because i love the results…