Surf 2 rounds.
Surf 4 hours.
Catch 50 waves overhead.
Get barreled 9 times.
Run over 5 surfers.
Get run over 1 time.
Ding my board.
Get sunburned.
Meet friends.
Laugh.
Excitement.
Memories.
Take shower.
Watch this sunset driving home.
Do I have the best job in the world?
Yes, I think so.
Tomorrow?
Samasama in Indonesian means “same thing.”
Goodnight and see you in the water!
Live the life you love,
Love the life you live.
The Life
High surf advisory!
South shore going off!
Surf all day!


