この写真の女の子は、アンジェラ・マキ・バーノン。彼女は自分の目で見て自分の鼻で匂いをか がない限り、どれくらい被害を受けたかは理解出来ないと思う。ここは、“北泉”という有名なサーフポイント。いつになれば前の姿に戻れるか僕 には分からないよ。
What to DO?
The Life
Surf 2 rounds.
Surf 4 hours.
Catch 50 waves overhead.
Get barreled 9 times.
Run over 5 surfers.
Get run over 1 time.
Ding my board.
Get sunburned.
Meet friends.
Laugh.
Excitement.
Memories.
Take shower.
Watch this sunset driving home.
Do I have the best job in the world?
Yes, I think so.
Tomorrow?
Samasama in Indonesian means “same thing.”
Goodnight and see you in the water!
Live the life you love,
Love the life you live.
You are not alone.
We are with you.
