I had a feeling that a secret spot I use to surf would be good today.  It’s a very far drive and an even farther paddle.  It’s always a gamble to go out there, but I like to gamble.  Good tide, good winds, and good swell direction.  This is what makes surfing so exciting.  It’s actually like going on a mini surf trip because nobody surfs there on days like this.

Even though it was high tide this morning, it was still very shallow.  I would keep on hitting the reef when I was siting on my board.  But when the waves came, it was perfect!

Surfed for an hour, caught so many long waves, and had the time of my life.  It’s these winter days I love the most.  Everybody is scrambling around the island to surf and when you score, it’s a great feeling!

The boys with the toys…

Good morning 4:15am.
High surf warning. North shore 15-18′ and dangerous.
The Eddie yellow alert for Sunday.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and clean.
Light wind so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We had a family dinner last night and I was surprised how good Honouliwai got riding his dirt bike.  He was going fast and jumping the hill.  And he’s only 4 years old!

Here is Joshua playing games with the kids.  All the kids love Uncle Joshua.  I can’t wait until the day he takes these kids out on the boat and teaches them about the ocean.  This is the perfect age for that.  This is about the age when I took the 5 Moniz kids out on my boat.  They never forgot about that day and we still talk about it.  So yeah, now’s the time Uncle Joshua!  

Joshua just won the Haleiwa contest.  Benji had to surf the Pipeline Masters the day after we dove.  That’s the only reason why we didn’t sleep on the boat that night.  Then after Benji speared a prized fish that day, he was so stoked!  I asked him about that feeling.  He said “it’s like getting the best barrel at Pipeline.”  The next day, he got the best barrel at Pipeline in my eyes.  A solid 15′ that wasn’t supposed to be ridden like that.  These kids are so amazing.  

I was telling my sister what great watermen these kids are.  They know so much about the ocean.  They can read and see things nobody else can.  The crazy thing is that they are still young.  Give them 10 more years and they will be ocean masters.  Wait, they already are.