Yesterday once more:  Good waves and perfect conditions!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Cloudy with rain.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another really dark and gloomy day in Hawaii.  BUT, the waves were so good this afternoon!

And the water cleaned up a lot too.  I think there’s no dirt in the mountains to wash into the ocean anymore.  It’s been raining for over a month!

So happy to surf with Leo today.  This kid is super cool.  He only surfs in Hawaii and we’ve been enjoying years of surfing together.

Laser focused and can adapt to any surfboard and any conditions.

This is  Leo surfing 7 years ago.  He went from little boy to a young fine man.  The adrenaline rush and stoke is the same.

Every year since, we always go to eat shave ice after surf.  Rain or shine, we both order shave ice with ice cream on the bottom.

7 years later.  Today was no different.  Shave ice with ice cream on the bottom!  Leo’s mom told me I’m like a big brother to him.  I almost cried hearing that.  I love watching kids growing up into fine young gentlemen.  Keep on surfing my little brother!

Surf’s up!

Good morning 5:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so clean conditions all day.
Cloudy and rain coming again.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!