I love this place…

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore waist high and clean.
Ala Moana waist high and fun.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
East winds at 20mph.
Sunny and hazy.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Nothing beats this view driving to the beach.  Strong trade winds, medium tide, east swell, and wild.  I was so excited to surf today.

Before I paddled out, I sat on the beach and watched the sun rise.  I was in no rush as the waves were only going to get better and better throughout the day.

And it got better and better by the hour.  I rode a bigger board and sat on the outside catching the sets.  Not too many surfers out today as this girl got a good one.

I love surfing Diamond Head like this.  It’s not easy to surf but if you know where to wait and have the right surfboard, you will have a great time.  If you don’t know where to wait or have the wrong surfboard, it will be a nightmare session.

This was my original itinerary for Japan.  But to pay $3,389 for a round trip on ANA, no thank you.  I searched for a ticket to anywhere else but Japan and found a rare deal.  It took 10 seconds for me to click “BOOK AND PAY.”  Can’t wait for to fly!

Morning session at Diamond Head. Surf your dream!