Play Simply…

Good morning 3:40am.
North shore 4-6′.
Ala Moana chest high.
Diamond Head shoulder high.
Junky southwest winds at 15mph.
Rain, lightning, and hopefully some sun later.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We gambled this morning and went to look deep into some secret spots.  Sometimes you get good waves, and most of the times you don’t.  This morning was one of those days exploring pays off.  

You can’t see this spot from the beach so you just have to paddle out and see it for yourself.  When we got out, it was way bigger and better than I had expected.  I surfed this spot around 10 times in the past 40 year and I had no idea it got this good!  Double overhead sets and barreling.  Mighty Mouse got 3 waves and survived.  I rode some of the best waves I’ve had in a while.  One of the guys out there told me today was the best it ever gets.  

Exercising is important to a healthy life.  The more you exercise, the more you can enjoy life.  Even if you don’t own gym shoes, you can still do it in slippers.  Haha.

The inside of Backdoor is about knee high deep.  All surfers out there know very well the dangers.  Sometimes I try to paddle back out and if you come face to face with a big wave, the only thing you can do is dive down knee high deep and hope the wave doesn’t slam you into the reef.  It’s not fun at all.

Then when you get 5 waves like that pounding you into the reef, it’s time to turn around and come in.  

I picked some fresh opihi at my secret spot and had it for dinner.  This is a delicacy!  

If you ever have a Yeti that sweats like this, just let them know and they will ship you a free replacement.  When companies back up their products, I respect that.

Round 1: Early morning start. 4-6’ and perfect rights and lefts. Super sunny, glassy conditions, and North shore power. Secret outer reef break. We scored!