Only a surfer knows the feeling…

Good morning 4am.
North shore back up to 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and getting bumpy again.
Trade winds back at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This sewage pipe project is a lot bigger than I thought.  My house is very old so there is a lot of pieces to the puzzle.  I’ve been under my house for hours, on YouTube for days, and on daily trips to every hardware store on the island.  This project has to be done in a timely matter because there will be no water or sewage once I start.  So I have to finish it before I have to pee again.  Haha.

When there is a north swell at Laniakea, everybody knows it’s going to be good.  I arrived there in the pitch dark and the parking lot was already full.  There were 10 aggressive surfers paddling for every wave so you have to be smart, aware, and pounce on every opportunity.  If you go out there thinking everyone is taking turns, you’re wrong.  I caught about 8 waves this session but there were guys riding behind me on most of them.  Haha.

Just to catch one single wave is an accomplishment because every wave will be excellent.  So watching Rocky hunt like a hungry tiger was pretty funny.  She ended up riding 4 really good waves.

Paddling back out with the biggest smile on her face.  And the adrenaline was still high because she couldn’t stop talking about it all the way home.  Haha.

Back in the day:  Traveling through the deepest Indonesia.

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and some showers.
Have a wonderful day!