2. The pop up. Strength.
3. The bottom turn. Timing.
4. Down the line. Flow.
5. The turn. Technique. This is surfing at 77 years old!
Good morning 4am.
North shore head high from the north.
Ala Moana waist to chest high.
Diamond Head shoulder high.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!
Hello again Mr. Sun! It’s been a while. Nice sunrise and lots of rainbows this morning. And good waves too!
We paddled out in the dark and were surprised to encounter good surf. Bowls has been flat every morning for the last week so it was nice to have chest high waves and good conditions all to ourselves.
There was nobody out this morning. Nakahodo-san was super lucky to have the lefts all to himself. We practiced the past 2 days in rough conditions so this was easy for him.
If you take off a little more angled to the right, you can get barreled at Bowls. Almost on this one. Pretty soon it will happen!
Rocky’s been surfing good in all conditions. If you want to know what “flow” is, just watch her surfing. And yes, nice 2mm front zip Dove top too.
Deco-san surfing towards the 2nd golden sunrise of the year. It’s so nice to have Mr. Sun back!
It’s pretty crazy how good Tokura-san’s surfing has gotten. Compared to last year, everything is looking so much better. It was already good, but now it’s better. That’s so inspirational for every surfer that wants to surf forever.
Another great example of “flow.” Let’s “flow” forever!
Diamond Head looking green again.
Good morning 4am.
North shore head high from the north.
Ala Moana waist to chest high from the east.
East winds at 20mph.
Clouds, rain, and hopefully sun later.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!
