Duckdive Boot Camp!

Good morning 4am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds so nice conditions today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I still have great memories of this day in Okinawa.  A super typhoon was approaching so I got on a flight from Hawaii and headed to Japan.  Arrived in Okinawa right before they closed all airports.  The biggest swell ever was about to hit the island.  We had a hard time convincing any fisherman to take us to this outer reef.  One accepted our offer and this day turned out to be crazy!  When we first pulled up to this spot, I thought it was way too dangerous.  But being young and crazy, dangerous is what we wanted.  We lost sight of one of our surfers the big wild ocean.  He showed up an hour later miles away.  This is probably the most dangerous wave in Japan by far.  Surfing a triple overhead wave backside over chest high deep jagged reef is terrifying.  I never did ask where this spot was because I never wanted to go back there again.  It’s those kind of places where at the end of the day, you’re just thankful for being alive.  When we went back to shore on the boat, a couple locals gave me a beer and sashimi.  I was chewing on it for a while and when asked what kind of sashimi that was, they told me it was raw goat testicles.  Maybe that’s the reason I never forgot about that crazy day.  Big waves and stink goat balls!  Haha.

This is the new Hawaii.  Lock your bicycles…

Good morning 4am.
North shore summer swell at 3-5′ today.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!