good evening. i kind of feel like surfing but not really. do you know what i mean? don’t call me spoiled but i’m going on another boat trip this weekend and i’m still kind of surfed out from my the other one. so i decided what i will do this week, which is not to surf. i’m going to watch other people surf and get hungry again. 5 days of that will be more than enough for me to get that hunger again. so when i board the boat somewhere in the indian ocean, i will be ready. ready to surf all day for 8 days straight. but until then, i’ll just shoot photos of people enjoying hawaii….
3 years ago, i remember seeing this young girl surfing queen’s all the time when i use to go shoot kelia out there. i didn’t know her name back then but now i do. it’s haunani she’s surfing pretty dam good. watch out for this young girl….
maki-san is the coolest. she’s super hyped on surfing and when ever she catches a good wave, she’s smiling ear to ear. check her out ripping kaisers this morning. nice turn maki-san…
i have so many good photos of japanese surfing in hawaii throughout the years. enough to make a 100 page book. i’m going to keep the best shot i take of every friend that comes here. then one day, put it all in a book. so from now on, i won’t post the best shot on my blog because i want it to be a surprise. this morning, i finally got my best shot of takami-san. 3 sequences after this was the photo i’ve been waiting for…. stay tuned…
oh, wanted to thank toda-san for towing me out the past few sessions. instead of swimming all the way out there, toda-san has been pulling me out, and pulling me in. gosh, i feel so special…. thanks….
and last, i’ve been hooked on longon. it’s way better than lychee and cheaper too. i went to china town just to buy some. i bought 2 pounds and it’s going to be my dessert for the next 5 days….
Beautiful People = Beautiful Photos….
Early Morning Session….
Fun in the Sun….
BROKE DA MOUTH….
good morning. 5:45am and the waves are clean and fun around the island. 12 surfers are already out at bowls. laniakea looking pretty fun too. chest high and maybe even a head high set. diamond head must be pretty dam good too. for me, kaisers is the call. a bigger south swell arriving tomorrow afternoon so there should be waves all week long. i have so many things to do so i’ll be starting my days from 5am now on. longer days and shorter nights. oh well, gotta go surf first…. have a nice day!!!
when it’s time to dive, i’m ready. call me, and i’ll go. most of my dive friends know that by now…
here’s what i think. if you go dive and catch fish, learn how to clean it, and cook it. most of the divers i know can all cook really good. kyle nakamoto can dive, cook, and clean. the garlic/butter pan fried fish for breakfast in molokai was amazing. and the butter/shoyu/chili pepper grilled opihi’s we barbecued the night before was even better. we say in hawaii “BROKE DA MOUTH”. or in japanese “MECHAKUCHA UMAI”. or in hawaiian “ono brah”. i wish you were there to try it….
and last, seeing dolphins in places like sea life park and sea world makes me sad. but seeing dolphins in the open ocean makes me happy. if you seen how they act in both environments, you will understand what i’m talking about…. i can count over 30 happy dolphins in this photo. how about you?