4′ and fun!!! 2 hour session…

good morning. wow, i slept for over 12 hours!! i was feeling down yesterday but feel much better today. everybody is telling me to slow down. but i don’t know how to. does slow down mean “not surfing/diving/going out with my friends?” if that’s so, i can’t do that… i’m going to take it easy one more day and go back to my fast life. getting sick sucks. but i guess it’s my body telling me something. something i should listen too. for now, i’m in slow mode. that means my phone will be off today, and i’m not going to be on my computer all day. put in a DVD, and chill… hope your all feeling much better than i am. if your not, you should slow down too… have a nice day….
oh, wanna know how the waves are? still big on the north shore. looks solid 4-6′ and out of the north today. sunset? haleiwa? yup, probably going off. town is small but fun. strong winds. surf safe….

remember that epic pipeline day last week? i do….

shun’s last day, i took him to foodland to buy ice cream and stuff for a smoothie. and stuff to make cookies. he asked me if he could buy an apple and picked a huge fuji apple from aomori. it was soooo sweet….

just another barbecue at the go-naminori house. gosh, i love this place…
**i just watched this pretty awesome video of garut on surfline. the kid’s ripping, and the kid has a dream to be the first indonesian to make the WCT. if anybody can do it, it’s garut!!
**CLICK HERE FOR GARUT’S AWESOME VIDEO….

good evening. north shore 2′ in the morning, 10′ + by this afternoon. another strong ground swell and these waves should be lasting for a while. strong winds but nobody is complaining. i seen guys getting huge barrels this evening at pipe. even town had some waves this evening. chest high and perfect off shore. but everywhere looking freakin cold… hope you had a great day and didn’t catch a cold. seems like everybody is getting sick recently. including me. maybe because of the cold weather??? wanna know what i did all afternoon? i was on the phone with blackberry support trying to figure out how to post a blog from my phone. getting transfered and transfered to different departments with no clear answers. frustrated? yup. do i like my new phone? no. i feel like throwing it off a mountain. anybody know how to fix this problem? if you do, please help!! i hate high tech stuff. and i especially hate trying to learn about it. ahhhh…. i’m not touching my phone for the next few days and just going to focus on surfing. that’s a much better life… anyway, keep warm and eat healthy…. have a nice evening….

oh, wanted to say hello to yoshi and his staff at latina in osaka!!! hope to see you in april….
**last, remember i told you that don king sent me a clip from back in the day? this was backdoor i think 10 years ago. i remember don king swimming around on a pretty big day with his huge movie camera. i remember getting a wave and hooking up with him. i didn’t know if he got it or not because i haven’t heard anything. well, until last week. don got it and i’m freakin stoked… check it out. and let me just say this, “old footage never dies”.. i feel like the luckiest person on earth. thank you don king for capturing a barrel that i will never ever forget….