Saturday October19日 2024年

Boston Celtics Blow Out Los Angeles Lakers…

good morning. 6:45am on this beautiful wednesday morning. wow, did you see the lakers/celtics game last night? it was awesome.. well, my team won so i guess it’s awesome. to all you lakers fans out there, sorry… haha… well, still got some waves in town and on the north shore. seen some shoulder high sets in town but got some morning sickness conditions. wait, i just seen a 3′ set at bowls. the trades are starting to kick in so it should clean up as the day goes along. it doesn’t look that crowded so get out there and enjoy before the next south swell crowd hits this weekend. laniakea looks super fun too. 10 guys out with chest high and epic conditions. waves everywhere for everybody. i’m outta hea….

i wanted to thank shinobu-san for sending me these photos from japan. this is matsuo and tatsuya teaching her kids ryoma and taku how to surf in chigasaki. those kids are the cutest. and matsu and tatsuya are the coolest….

hey, isn’t that alyssa? yeah it is, alyssa is in japan doing promotions for RLM wetsuits. it’s so amazing how everybody is linked somehow. everybody knows somebody and somebody knows everybody so everybody knows everybody. get it? that’s the cool thing about the surfing world. it’s so huge, but at the same time, so small….

and last, wanted to wish yoshi a happy birthday. he busted out this expensive bottle of red wine last night. that was the best dam red wine i’ve ever tasted. after a couple glasses, i forgot what it was called…[:????????????:][:????????????:]
**and last last, i was wondering how golfers get hurt all the time. tiger woods has a bad knee? how? how do you get hurt playing golf? did he fall off the cart? i just don’t get it. i play golf and the only way i almost got hurt was when i tripped over a tree root when i went to take a piss…

Video Surfing Waikiki…

good evening. another great day here in paradise. the waves are around and doesn’t want to go away. headed down to queen’s this morning to meet up with shuji, jun, and photographer kondo-san for a morning photo session. i stuck my camera in my pocket and had a blast surfing, shooting video, surfing, and shooting video. so many of my friends were out so it was pretty cool. the waves were still good and there are more and more south swells on the way. and yeah, the north shore was going off today too. waves for everybody. this is the best summer in hawaii for many years. and it’s just the beginning… everybody be happy and go naminori….
**oh, just wanted to thank everybody for the nice emails. been getting a lot from all over the world and am pretty stoked about it. i really appreciate you guys checking out my blog would do more if i had a secretary. haha… just joking… but thanks again and to all the guys that send me emails about showing more chicks on my blog, go easy. it’s not good for the kids… if you want to see that kind of photos, go buy a playboy magazine…
**anyway, check out the action from waikiki this morning. got some sweet video of shuji and jun rippin it up. and got some sweet video of some hot chicks.. wait, i didn’t say that…. haha… enjoy….

Hawaii: Shark Country…

good morning. 6am on this beautiful tuesday morning. there’s swell all around the island. see some epic chest high waves at lani’s. got 3 guys on it already. town is looking pretty dam good too. leftover head high sets with epic conditions. the winds should be coming on shore by 10am so get on it early. i’m out of here… have a nice day….

i hardly eat at mcdonalds. but when i do, it’s mostly for breakfast. check out this local plate with spam, sausage, egg, and rice. $4.68 ain’t that bad. i ate that yesterday morning on the way to surf. but after i ate this plate, i went back home to sleep….

and check out this maguro kama my friend gave me. oh my gosh, it was so good…. and to think, the people in hawaii throw this part away… mottainai…
**and last, i surfed kewalo’s yesterday around 12pm and was supposed to meet my friend carter out. i paddled out and the waves were going off. and there were only 4 other guys out. carter never showed up. after i came in, got a message on my phone. “hey kirby, i pulled up to kewalo’s and when i was getting my board ready, then these 2 guys came in and said that there was a huge shark out there so i decided not to surf. call me when you get in”. wow?? carter knows i’m not scared of sharks but gosh, i’d like to know when i’m surfing with one… haha…