Saturday October19日 2024年

International Surfing Day 2008…

good evening. still got some waves in town. surfed kewalo’s this morning. the most packed kewalo’s i’ve ever seen. i’d say over 30 guys out, with a lot of japanese. seen mito, maki, carter, and even ross williams out there. chest high and super fun. today is king kamehameha day in hawaii? what does that mean? i don’t know. i guess it’s just another hawaiian holiday… hope yo all had a good one…

i dropped by my sisters house to check out the kids. seth was in the kitchen cooking his own lunch. when i seen that, i had a flashback. when i was young, we use to cook for ourselves too. even do our own laundry and stuff. i’m really thankful to my mom because that made us all independent. i could have been thrown out into the jungle as a kid and probably survived. i think my sisters kids could do the same….

this is rocky cannon. i met rocky back in 1993 when he came over to japan for the minami cup. i took care of him and nainoa surrat for a couple weeks. they were like 13 years old or something. we went to izu, chiba, and niijima together. rocky was always cool and humble. and still is. back then, rocky was only dreaming of surfing pipeline. these days, rocky paddles out there and gets pretty much any wave he wants. he gained that respect over the years. he’s a pro surfer, lifeguard, realtor, and told me that he wants to be a teacher someday. i learned that “leading by example” is the best way to teach kids and rocky is that perfect example. a solid role model… this was at the bowls contest. thanks for the lift….

hey everybody, INTERNATIONAL SURFING DAY is this coming June 20, 2008. get out there on that day and do something good…. surfing magazine posts photos from around the world of that day. so will i…. whether it be surfing or doing something good, send me a photo from that day and i will post it too.. mahalo…
***and last, i’m watching the maldives contest live right now. hawaiians are advancing. all japanese lost. sunny garcia and kekoa bacalso looks pretty solid just winning thier heats. joel centeio surfing now with dustin quizon up next. CLICK HERE FOR LIVE….

Shark Surfer: DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME….

ohayo gozaimasu…. shit, had a rough night. kind of getting into pool and trying to focus. but kind of hard when your having a good time… too many distractions, too many jacksan’s, and too many balls that can’t seem to go in the hole….

this is sam and kana-chan. they were on the winners table all night…. they were so deadly that i got poked in the neck with their pool stick. and i even got the white ball on my foot…. ouch… crazy pool and crazy fun…
*oh, it’s 8:30am and there’s like 20 guys out at bowls. looks waist high with a freak chest high set if you wait long enough. winds backed down a little so the conditions are pretty clean. i’m going to jump in the water to get rid of this headache….. have a nice day…
*last, don’t try this at home. watch it and tell me if you think it’s real…..

Hawaii Mountain Apples….

good evening. went out to bowls this morning just to get wet. didn’t even check before i paddled out so thought it was small. once i got out, the sets kept on coming and coming. chest high and perfect. not too many guys out so it was super fun. i love this island…

the other day i was up at the pool, there was a open house right across the street. so curious me went inside to check it out. 4 bedroom, 3 bath, with the million dollar view. and at 2 million dollars, it could be yours. how would you like waking up to this every morning???

this is the open bathroom overlooking the mountains. sweet… when the realtor wasn’t looking, i used the toilet. haha…

speaking of mountains. got a bag of mountain apples from my aunty’s house down my street.

when i was a kid, these things use to grow wild everywhere in the mountains. i haven’t eaten one in years and when i took my first bite, all the sweet memories came back. and my friend who lives up in the mountains told me that the guava’s are ripe and ready to be picked. i’m going to go check that out….

and last, check out sunny garcia ripping it at the 6 star srilankan airlines pro in the maldives. i went to pasta point in the maldives before and they said we can’t surf there unless we stayed at the camp. so before you pay thousands of dollars on a luxury boat in the maldives, remember that you can’t surf anywhere you want. politics? yup… not in america…. anyway, watch the live broadcast of the contest by CLICKING HERE….