good morning. high surf advisory for the south shores of hawaii. the waves were good yesterday but look even better today. just seen a solid 4′ set and the conditions look pretty dam good. yesterday i timed big rights perfect. as i was paddling out, all the boys were coming in. that was 12pm lunch time. today is sunday so i have to time it even better because i don’t want to surf with 100 guys out there. ummm, anyway, have a nice day and see you in the water….

i went to go chucky cheeses and ordered the all you can eat salad “one trip” plate. so i made “one trip” and ate all i could eat… at $6, i swear that salad bar is the best…

i always tell my friends that if they let me borrow their board, don’t expect it back if it works good. last week, mike woo dropped off his board to let me try and i tried it. and now he ain’t getting it back… i already cleaned it up and put my stickers on it… haha…

throughout my surfing life, i always rode squash tails on my short boards. i never had a round pin that worked like magic until this one. round pin with glass on fins… that’s the way to go. i can hit the lip and if the tail pops out, it catches so i can recover. i’ve been feeling like kelly slater these past days. haha.. this 6’0 board was designed for good waves and the waves have been better than good. so it’s all good. good day, go play…. and no, i’m not drunk….

and last, this is the kind of stuff that happens in countries around the world. but japan? no. this was the headlines this morning. “7 reported dead in Tokyo stabbing rampage,10 more wounded; alleged attacker says he was ‘tired of life'”
it happened in akihabara “electric town”. a 25 year old japanese man rammed his car into a crowd of shoppers, got out, and started stabbing them. i guess no where’s safe anymore. if your at the wrong place at the wrong time, your screwed….. that part of life sucks….

so here’s my luck. trying to get into ala moana park today to surf big rights. i knew the parade was going to start so i was driving a little fast there. got the green light, following the 5 cars ahead of me, and as soon as i was going to cross the intersection, the lady cop stops me. SHIT@…. i was stuck there for a while in the hot sun watching the parade from my car. wow, so fun…

and i wasn’t the only unlucky guy. i’d rather be surfing…. and talk about surfing, the waves were pretty dam good today. by far the best and biggest day for surf this year on the south shore. 4′ with some 5′ sets at spots like bowls with perfect conditions. i got 4 pretty nice barrels at big rights. gosh, it felt so dam good…. tomorrow, i’m getting barreled again….

did you know that energy drinks like red bull, rockstar, and monster energy drinks account for more than $3 billion in annual sales just in the united states? and did you know that the main ingredient is caffeine? and did you know if you gave a person like me that doesn’t drink caffeine 3 drinks, it would make my heart race and probably make me violent? yeah, they say that too much caffeine makes people aggressive and violent. anyway, i once drank a can and talked my friend to sleep. keep the caffeine away from me….

and did you know that jack daniels will kick your ass if you drink too much…. as jacksan says, “drink responsible and drive safe”…. happy summer…. thank’s shin-san for the photo from costco japan. now i know to take my membership card the next time i go there…

and last, my friends don’t believe me when i tell them how expensive fruits are in japan. so here it is. this 17lbs watermelon sold for $6,100. believe me now???

good morning. 6:30am saturday and the waves in town are going off!! just seen a solid 4′ set at bowls. got 25 guys out already. it’s going to be a solid day for surfing in hawaii. have a nice day. i’m out of here…

david kawada knew where the spot was yesterday. he was the only short boarder out at queen’s. he sat in the right place and caught some sick double up’s… from queen’s to pipe, david rips….

no, this is not a guy doing a snap on a fish or retro-board. this is a guy doing a snap on a freaking bodyboard. yeah, i tripped out because this guy was doing power snaps and cutbacks on his sponge… that’s nuts….

hey, these were the two doing tandom out out at queen’s… know them??

and last. everybody thinks queen’s is only a right. wrong. there is a left too. see….