good morning. 7am and the waves look good everywhere. north shore still got some small clean ones and town came up. bowls looks super fun now with 19 guys on it. chest/shoulder high and perfect. super sunny skies. i’m going out there…. have a great day…

5 down, 7 to go…..
**waves are flat? water is dirty? can’t surf, cant dive, what do you do? go cardboard surfing. yeah, surf the hills in town with a piece of cardboard. it’s super fun and you don’t have to be a kid to do it. i just didn’t want to post myself acting like a kid do i just posted the kids having a fun afternoon a few weeks ago. next time i go, i’m going big. see you on the hills….
**and thanks cathy for correcting me. yeah, maui is the “valley isle”. it was molokai the “friendly isle” right? gosh, both places so much aloha and so many friendly smiley faces. i wish everywhere in the world could be like that. including oahu….

good evening. had a lazy hazy day here on oahu. small fun waves everywhere around the island. cloudy and a little hazy but it’s all good. got a lot of stuff to do and want to get it over with because swells on the way. nothing big but it’s going to be perfect with these light winds. see you in the water… good night….

shun and ren from yugawara. just a couple more trophies to add to their collection…. keep up the good work boys…

i was on maui shooting. that’s why i can’t post the photos but i took over 4000. some pretty cool ones. after the magazine comes out, i’ll bust them out. so hang on a little….

we went to this secluded beach with some of the cleanest water around. the water was so clean and the sand was so white. i felt like getting my ukulele out and singing “white sandy beach of ha… maui”…. wait, i can’t play ukulele. and wait, i can’t sing. haha… anyway, i had my goggles and while i was shooting, i seen this nice cowry shell laying on the bottom. it was still alive so had to let him go after i played with it for a while. if he wasn’t alive, it would already be on my shelf with the rest of my shell collection from around the world. maybe next time…. but gosh, it was so beautiful that i had to take this photo. and get this, i don’t think too many people dive the coast because when i went down about 15′ and i could actually touch the fish with my hands. they were so tame…. anywhere on oahu, no way!!! oh, except hanauma bay…
**and last, for all of you who asked where the heck the kelia video went, here it is again. i pulled it off my blog last week because i didn’t know i was not supposed to post it. i got it from a backdoor source and they freaked out when i posted it because it wasn’t even out yet. sorry about that… but gosh, check it out because it’s one of the coolest videos i’ve ever seen…

ok, it’s out! the photos and video from kelia’s mexico trip came out today on surfline.com. i just saw it and oh my gosh…. sick….
CLICK HERE FOR A THE MEXICO PHOTOS AND VIDEO…. make sure you press the NEXT button and watch slowly because there’s audio too. and the last frame is the video. pretty sick video and photos….

good morning. back here on oahu and checking the waves now. north shore looks 3′ and pretty clean. not too many guys out. town is pretty small. got a bunch of surfers out at bowls but it looks only waist high on the sets. overcast skies with some rain. looks like a dark day but i like it. i was in the hot sunny blue sky sun all day yesterday. i’m totally fried. drove around deep into maui yesterday and you know what? i found a place where i want to live when i retire from work next year. yeah, i wish. but that place is hana, maui. freaking paradise….

krispy kreme doughnuts is the bomb. every time local people go to maui, they bring this back to oahu as an omiyage. i don’t really like doughnuts but these are pretty dam good..

we say in japanese “kaisugi”. that means, “buy too much”. and that’s what i did… 24 doughnuts… haha…

i’ve been to maui many of times to surf contests and stuff. i use to go with carter in our amateur days and use to enter the local maui contests. but my memory is so bad that i don’t remember anybody. the only thing i remembered was how nice the people there were back then. and still are. so much aloha spirit. i guess that’s why they call maui “The Friendly Island”….

takeshi from japan asked me about the super ferry because he’s going to ride it this summer. so here are some super ferry tips that i think takeshi and everybody should know before riding:
1. it’s freaking freezing cold in there. i wore long pants, shoes, long sleeve shirt and i was still freezing cold. if i go again, i will take a blanket for sure.[:???:][:???:][:???:]
2. excess baggage charge for surfboards is $25/one way. i was lucky, my wink at the check in counter worked so it was free both ways. haha… but you know something, the staff at the super ferry are the nicest people on earth. so nice and excellent service.
3. if you get seasick, get an airplane instead. the waves and wind were as calm as it could be so the ride was pretty smooth. but on a regular tradewind day, expect to throw up…
4. take your own car from oahu. save about an hour and some hassles of renting a car when you get there.
5. and last, they have strict rules about being late. 30min before departure, they shut the gates and won’t let anybody in. well, except if your a cute japanese girl that was late for taking her rent a car back. then you get escorted right on in. if your a guy, forget it. hawaiian style….