Thursday October17日 2024年

More Golden Week Queen's….

good morning. 7am tuesday morning. north shore got up to 5′ yesterday with spots like rocky’s and laniakea going off. it came down today but still surfable. the south swell is pretty much done. got some leftover waist high sets at bowls. perfect for longboarding. not too many surfers out right now. i see only 3. it’s going to be another beautiful sunny day here so get out and enjoy… have a nice day….
**check out more photos from yesterday….

this kid had inside queens all to himself. i though he was some beginner kid from japan or something but when he stood up, he ripped the shit out of this wave. i was impressed….

there are some tattoo’s i like, and there are some tattoo’s i don’t like. these i like…. check out the hawaiian islands on her shoulder and the hula girl on her back. pretty cool….

kelia is the easiest surfer to shoot. she’s just super photogenic. every time i shoot her, i always get 2 or 3 sick ones. i like this one the best from yesterday’s session…. and check out how perfect the waves were…

after a good early morning surf session, everybody goes home happy….

Golden Week Surfing Waikiki…

good evening. went to queen’s this morning with my brother, sister, and 2 nieces. had a blast… check out these photos…

when we got there, my sister was already out. it was her and only a few other surfers… check her out nose riding kelia’s board. it’s the first time i’ve seen her nose ride and it’s probably the first time she’s ever did it. i guess your never too old to get better in surfing. i’m not saying my sister is old or anything.. haha… and i feel sorry for kelia because she will probably never get that board back from my sister. it’s a keeper….

my brother surfs once in a while. when we were kids, he use to surf better than all of my friends. i always wonder how far he would have gone if he didn’t quit. anyway, it’s good to see him back in the water enjoying the ocean…

my 2 nieces rip. they are the same age and are really good friends. seeing that makes this uncle happy…

these two girls have grow up so much these past few years. WARNING: go near them, i’ll shoot you. and i ain’t joking….

i seen a patagonia ad of a girl hanging 10 backwards and thought it was pretty cool. so i asked kelia yesterday if she could do that. she looked at me and said “yeah, of course”. then she did it this morning. i ain’t saying this because i’m her uncle, but “dam, she’s good”. i wish she would focus on longboarding instead of shortboarding all the time. if she did, i’ll bet anybody she’ll be world champion real soon….
**wanted to thank guy hagi from channel 9 news for putting my photos on the news… mahalo guy….

People Magazine's Top 50 Beautiful People…..

good morning. waves came up on the north shore. 2 guys out at pipe now and looks 2′. laniakea is probably the spot today. town is down. waist/chest high with super clean conditions. my sister just called and said queen’s looks fun. i’ll probably go surf there with my nieces… have a nice day….

to make the people magazine’s top 50 most beautiful people of the world list is such an accomplishment. malia jones made it a few years ago which was pretty big news for hawaii. well, huge news…

this year, kate hudson was number 1. not a bad choice….

but i just have one question for people magazine. who are your judges? i don’t know how the heck tokiwa takako didn’t make the top 50. somethings terribly wrong. i’m never reading people magazine ever again….