good morning. 6:15 aloha good friday. today is good friday and a holiday in hawaii. easter sunday coming up this weekend. hope to find some eggs. i remember when i was a kid, we use to go to my grandma’s house and color eggs. then she use to hide it in her back yard. my brothers and sister and i use to run in the yard and see who could find the most eggs. then eat it after. those were the days. i wish i can be a kid again. i might still act like one but i miss the kids things. like waiting for santa clause on christmas eve, and waiting for the tooth fairy when your first tooth fell out. ahhhhh….. anyway, the waves are pretty much flat everywhere today. don’t even see a wave breaking at pipe now. good for diving…. town came down too. the park’s knee/waist high with 12 guys and 2 stand up paddlers out. 5 guys out at rockpiles and 9 guys out at bowls. gosh, i want to surf so bad today but don’t know where to go. oh wait, i just seen a chest high set at bowls. i guess i know where i’m going today. see you in the water….

i was super hungry the other day and i forgot to bring money with me. i was looking for some free food and remembered where i could find some. that’s right, the leftovers from the lost crew. i ate some chili beans with mushrooms on the side. gosh, it was pretty good……

then after i ate all that food. i needed a place to rest so i headed in one of the tents and took a nap on the airplane seat. now when i see it on tv, i can say that i took a nap there…. haha…

and you better stay away or you will find yourself in jail. i went to city mill and bought this sign to put in the sand so nobody else comes. only i’m invited here and like to come here when i’m feeling a little “LOST”… get it? haha….
**by the way, been getting a lot of emails about the lost set and the lost dog. for some people, i guess it’s a big deal. but for me, i really don’t care because i don’t watch lost. never did and probably never will. why watch lost when i’m already lost? gosh, i’m feeling funny this morning.. haha….

i got my new passport!! what a relief!! last week, i was checking when it expires because i knew it was coming up. i’m going to indo this sept. and if i didn’t check it, i would have been stopped at dempasar airport for sure. why? because you need it to be valid 6 months after date of entry. well, i only had 5 months. being stopped in indo and then turned around would have sucked. so i had only 10 days to get a new passport before my journey starts. i was stressing out. then i found out that i could make an interview with a customs agent and get a passport in 2 days. and in 2 days i got my new electronic passport…. now i can travel around the world again for the next 10 years….
* i was checking out my old passport to check out the countries i’ve been in the last 9 years. australia, micronesia, south africa, singapore, philippines, korea, hong kong, fiji, samoa, tahiti, mexico, indonesia 6 times, and japan about 40 times. i guess i did my fair share of traveling. can’t wait to see where i’m going in the next 10 years. the journey continues. and now that i’m going to buy a new video camera, you’ll be able to join me. stay tuned….

***it was 8 years ago back in 2000 when i was invited on a boat trip to the mentawai islands, north sumatra, indonesia. surfing world photographer yoshiro nakayama, bali legend wayan ganti, and all the JPSA judges were on the boat. we had a freaking blast. i was the youngest one on the boat so i was kind of nervous being surrounded by these guys. but after a few bintangs, age didn’t mean anything. we all got along and had such a great time. surfing perfect waves with nobody around for miles and miles, eating fresh sashimi every night, the jokes, the sea snakes, and tons of ever lasting memories. back in 2000, there were only a few boats operating in the mentawai’s so we had the top spots pretty much to ourselves. it sure ain’t like that anymore so i’m glad i had my video camera and documented uncrowded mentawai’s…… this is part 1 of 4 so stay tuned for the rest…..

good morning. 7:15am thursday morning. waves on the north shore done…. looks super small up there and i think our winter season is pretty much over. gosh, how fast… town has some small waves. waist/chest high at bowls. got a bunch of surfers out there and quite a few out at the park. the tide is very very low so please be careful. i’m going surfing. got to practice for some small japan waves. i didn’t realize how much work and energy it takes to surf small waves. after i caught a long left yesterday at bowls, i was tired. i think i got spoiled taking off and just pulling into perfect barrels. that’s not good. well, it’s good but i better practice or i will look like a kook when i go to japan. haha… i’m going surfing. have a nice day….
can you believe that the iraq war was already going on for 5 years? and is there an end in sight?? no. no. no…. something is freaking wrong. what’s the problem? i want to know… after 600 billion dollars spent, almost 4,000 americans dead, how long more will this go on? i forgot why we’re even fighting and who we’re fighting. all i know is that young soldiers are dying everyday and when there’s no sign of the end, it’s pretty depressing. obama said that if he becomes president of the america, he’s pulling the troops out within 6 months. now you know who i’m voting for…..
**please watch this video of the fallen soldiers that have sacrificed their lives for the freedom we have. pretty touching. song by tim mcgraw called “if your reading this”….