good morning. 5:30am and seems like there’s still some waves on the north shore. it’s still to dark to see the size but i can see some white wash so i’m guessing 3′? town looks like there are some small ones too. supposed to pick up through out the day. light winds making for perfect conditions. surf? dive? i’m going surfing. have a nice day….

so there it was, sitting in my garage for 2 months. glenn minami shaped me this 5’10 swallow tail a while ago and when i picked it up, i put it on the side. didn’t think i would need it for this winter because i was planning on only surfing big waves. this board is made for small waves but something got me to grab it out and get it ready. what was it? might sound funny but it was kelly slater riding his 5’10 swallow tail in the snapper rocks contest surfing like superman. i got a glance of his board when i was watching it live and it looked something like this. so my sponsors stickers are on, it’s waxed up, and ready to go. just waiting for the waves to drop a little because i don’t want to break this baby. today is the day….

i even dug out the kelly slater fins out of my garage. why not???? haha…. i can’t wait to try my new toy….. but first, i will go shave my head and put on my white wetsuit… then drive down to the beach with pamela anderson on my side… haha… see you in the water….

good evening. gosh, i’m surfed out, dived out, and totally burnt out…. need to take a break today so carter picked me up and we went to hang out. drove around until we landed at this secluded beach….

there were whales jumping all over, turtles on the beach and in the water, and white sand loaded with shells…. not to mention, perfect waves with nobody around for miles and miles….

there were these kids on the rocks feeding seaweed to the turtles. when we got there, there were 8 turtles swimming around. such a cool place to spend a day off…..

then i ate a whole huli huli chicken. came back home, and lights out…. thanks carter for driving today. it felt good to be in the passenger seat for once….

when we were diving for ono’s yesterday. there were so many “lai” swimming around. pretty big ones. i wanted to bring home something so i speared a couple. james told me it’s good sashimi so that’s what i ate tonight. and yes, it wasn’t just good, it was great….. perfect surf and perfect weather this whole week. i’m going back to the office tomorrow early morning. see you in the barrel…. goodnight….

good morning. 7:15am sunday morning. gosh, it’s the first time in what it seems years that i woke up and it’s lighted outside. it’s still early but i feel like i’m wasting this beautiful day. waves on the north shore still hanging around. 2-3′ perfect waves on the north shore with 20 guys out at pipe. looks so fun… town has some waist high waves with a bunch of surfers out at ala moana park. 4 guys out at rockpiles and 10 guys out at bowls. it’s another perfect day for surfing or diving in hawaii with this perfect weather we’ve been having. my mind is saying “surf/dive, surf/dive” but my body is saying “go easy brother”…. ok brother, i’m going easy today. there’s always tomorrow… by the way, south swell expected tomorrow and north/west swell on saturday. gosh, i need a vacation. haha… anyway, have a nice and safe day. go out today and spread some aloha…..

yesterday’s conditions were epic for surfing and diving. been surfed out so thought i’d take a break to go blue water hunting… went out to the deep blue with kyle and james and had an awesome experience. we were looking for the big “ono” or “sawara”. i took my 100cm gun, which is really small for blue water hunting. but that’s the gun i want to shoot a big fish with. it’s a lot more challenging because you got to bring the fish in. so there it was, after chumming the water with a dead stink saba, this big ono came out of the deep to eat the bait. i dove down, waited patiently, and when he came in, i took the shot right behind his head. yeah, got him. he took off and stretched my tag line and took my float. then as fast as i had him, i lost him. he ripped off my spear and that was the end of that. so i was bummed out but it was still early so i knew there would be more. next dive we’re waiting in 120′ depth crystal clear water. still chumming our saba waiting patiently. then here they come. 3 of them. i seen kyle go down for a shot so i was watching from the top. kyle took the shot and just missed a 35lbs plus ono. as he was reloading his spear, i seen the ono come back. so i dove down, waited till he came in, and took the perfect shot behind his head again. he went screaming down and took all my line off my real. i called james and he came with the boat and threw me my other back up gun. i could see the ono pulling my gun and tag line about 120′ down. i tried to go down but no way. as i was coming up for air, i seen my float yank 8′ underwater. then snap, it was gone. ummm…. james told me that a shark took my fish and when i think about it, he’s right. i got one of those lifeguard floats and there was no way that fish was going to take it down like that. so i shot two fish but lost both. bummed? not really… then we went back again. another big one comes out of the deep blue and kyle drops down and spears it perfectly. yeah!! i’m thinking “sashimi”… then as he took kyle’s tagline, snap. gone… 3 fish speared and 3 fish lost. it’s just one of those days…. i might not have sashimi tonight but i have some pretty awesome memories…. can’t wait till next time…. wanted to thank kyle for taking me on his boat, and james for being an awesome boat man…. thanks guys… we’ll get um next time….
**by the way, a couple of guys sent me emails asking where i dive. my answer is, depends on what kind of fish you want. diving is like surfing, you want to surf a little point break, you go here. and if you want to surf a big ass double up barrel, you go there. different kinds of fish hang out at different places. but the big difference is, going surfing, you can see the waves from the beach, but for diving, you can’t see the fish underwater unless you go underwater. divers like my friends and i have been scouting grounds for years and have our spots down. even if i told you where we go, you wouldn’t be able to find it. one example is that i couldn’t even find my olympus camera at this little area in waikiki. this ocean is just way too big…. so my advice to divers is, go out and scout. and when you do find good grounds, you’ll remember….

when we pulled back into haleiwa harbor around 6pm, the sun was just setting. gosh, it was so dam beautiful. just another picture perfect day in hawaii….
**and last, check this wave pool out in japan. the craziest thing i’ve ever seen…. how the heck do you swim? i can’t wait to go there….