get this story. i’ve been hearing the brothers names mike and bill boyum for years now. mike boyum is the one who found G-Land and started the first surf camp there. bill boyum is the one who discovered cloud 9 on sairgao island in the philippines. these two brothers are legends and are known names in the surfing industry. been hearing stories here and there from other people about them but always seemed a little fishy. so there i was one day checking out spearguns in andre’s shop in bali. in walks in this this guy who introduced himself as cyrus. he gave me his card and i saw cyrus boyum on it. i asked him if he was related to any of the boyums who discovered g-land and cloud 9. he told me that bill was his uncle and mike was his father. oh my gosh!!! that’s nuts. i didn’t have that much time because we had to go but out came the questions. i just fired away because there are so many things i wanted to know. i guess, the truth. cyrus was super friendly and told me the scoops. gosh, i learned in that 20 minute conversation what i’ve always wanted to know for the past 15 years. i’ve been keeping in touch with cyrus who is from maui but lives in bali now with his family. i got a million more questions for him and can’t wait to sit down with him again. what a small world…. i told some of my japanese friends i met the son of the founder of g-land and the nephew of the founder of cloud 9. they all have questions too but they will just have to wait. for now, cyrus is building his surf/dive camp in sumba, indonesia. he’s got his website going and been surfing some epic waves, and spearing some big fish. it’s just another place i want to visit. and it’s just a stone throw away from bali…. hope to see you cyrus. save some waves and fish for me….

this is cyrus holding a big uku in his right hand and an ono in his left. both perfect for sashimi….

that looks like an andre gun he’s holding… good choice….

this is called an ono or “sawara” in japanese. it’s ono or “oishi’ in japanese….
CHECK OUT HIS WEBSITE AT WWW.ADVENTUREINDO.COM….

good morning. 6:15am and gosh, there’s still waves on the north shore. looks 3-4′ and super clean. got a bunch of guys out at pipe already and it’s looking like another epic day of surfing. clear skies, light winds, what more could you ask for??? town has some waves too. there’s 5 stand up paddleboard surfers out at the park now. waves in the waist high range with clean conditions. diamond head must be going of f now…. anyway, once again, epic waves around the island. get out there and enjoy it…..

went out with the boys last night. on the first friday of every month, downtown lights up. the clubs and bars are happening and loaded with people. it’s been a while since i got out into the night life but i had a great time…. we went to this restaurant turned night club called “Epic”…. yeah, that’s my kind of place…..

inside was epic too. haha… it’s a restaurant until 10pm when it turns into a club. gogo dancers and everything….

it’s been a while since i had a few with jacksan….

and while we’re on the lost subject. look who was there last night. lost star daniel dae kim. he’s one of the actors in the drama “lost” series. i was telling him that i tried the mustard and it tasted pretty good… haha…. anyway, had a great time last night and wanted to say mahalo to the boys…. mahalo….

good evening. yet another epic day of surfing here in hawaii. pulled up to backdoor before 7am and i was surprised that there were still waves. it was 3-5′ and perfect…..

guys are calling this the best winter season ever. it’s just been perfect for too long. i’ve been surfing the north shore for 22 years and this is as good as it gets. anyway, i paddled out on my 6’6 and i felt like it was on a 5’10. there was just too much water moving out there. caught a wave, buckled my board, and came in. the one broken board a day rule was out. it was still 7:30 and i wasn’t finished. so i go back to my car and grab my magic 7’0. a board i’ve gotten the best barrels in my life on. had it for 5 years and never ever pull into close outs with it. caught a few good waves and was having a good session. then about 9am, i caught a wave and started paddling back out. and there it was, a solid 5′ set ready to break in front of me. should i hold on to my board and try to duck dive? wait, matchi did that last month and ended up in the hospital. so i decided to throw it on the side and dive under. SNAP!! shit…. i came up and my baby was broken. i felt like punching something…. ahhhhh….. luckily i go to anger management. haha. just joking… i was going to grab another board but i thought that if i broke 3 boards today, i would get fired. haha… sorry tssc. but i really need to order some new boards…. my winter season has just begun….

as i was walking to my car with my broken board, i saw kamio. he opened his trunk and gave me a six pack of beer. freakin stoked….. i drank all six of them warm on my way back to town…. [:?????????:][:?????????:] just joking….

last night, i ate a huge turkey drumstick. it was so good….. finger lickin good…..
**and wanted to thank all of you who sent me an email about the free stickers. gosh, i woke up this morning and had over 100 emails. i sent out to the first few people. so congratulations to kinji-san from osaka, daisuke-san from miyazaki, takeshi-san from aomori, and yukinori-san from hawaii. it’s already in the mail so you should be getting it soon. enjoy. and for the rest of you who sent me an email about the stickers, sorry. it would take me a week to send it out to everybody. i’ll give some more stickers away in the near future…. mahalo….
**now to leave you with a scary airplane ride. glad i wasn’t on that flight…..