good evening. wow, in all my lifetime, today was probably the longest, most fun, and most exhausting day for me. here’s how it went….

left my house before 6am. when i got the the north shore, the sun was rising out of the east… great start to a great day…. surfed backdoor this morning. it was pretty good early but then got inconsistent and smaller. scott aichner, kinsan, sahara, kamio, daniel, along with a couple other water photographers were swimming in the closeout zone waiting to get the shot. i haven’t hooked up with any photographer this whole season so i thought i’d better do my job. paddled down where the closeouts were and went on my first one. take off, pull in, hit the reef, and paddle back out wondering what the hell i’m doing. next, same thing. next, same thing. i did it 3 times until my board broke. if you want a photo on a day like today, that’s your only choice so you have to do it. my leg hurts from hitting the reef so hard, and my magic 6’8 is broken. was it worth it? just have to wait and see…. surfed for over 3 hours until the wind started getting weird. jumped in my car still wet and speeded my way back to town. why?

because today was the best day of the year so far to go diving…. hayato met me at my house, hooked up my boat, and headed off to meet shawn at the hawaii kai boat harbor….

passed by sandy beach….

passed by rabbit island…. and ended up in waimanalo 30 minutes later….

dove for a few hours, shawn getting chased by a shark, hayato spearing the most fish i’ve ever seen him spear, filled up my big cooler, and started heading back….

as we were making our way back around makapuu point, a huge mother whale and a baby whale were jumping right in front of my boat. it was pretty amazing. i told hayato to “jump in” and check it out. he looked at me like i was crazy. i’m not the one jumping in so i’m not crazy. haha… but it’s an experience of a lifetime so why not? so shawn and hayato went to jump in. check out the splash from the whale just jumping. and that little black spot is hayato’s head. next time i go diving, i’m taking my good camera and going to swim and shoot the whales… stay tuned…

i still can’t believe we filled up my big cooler with fish. all good fish…. here shawn is taking out his share…
so it was dawn till dusk for me. over 7 hours in the water, 3 hours driving, about $50 worth of gas, 3 barrels, 3 closeouts, one broken board, one hurt leg, sunburned face, a lot of fish, and one tired ass guy. don’t anybody call me tonight or i will beat you up. i’m going to sleep….. goodnight….
**more photos coming soon….

good morning. 5:30am and the waves should be good today so i’m out of here…. see ya….

this photo is from the other day at pipe. i seen a guy take off super deep and pull into the barrel, then somebody dropped in and pulled in too. i was just looking at it through my lens and was thinking what an asshole for dropping in. then in the back, i seen this shadow coming from deep inside. the guy in the back freaking made the barrel, both of them did…. so i snapped this shot and that’s the story….

and last, just an empty wave from the other days secret shorebreak session…. puinsai!!!

good evening. waves were big on the north shore this morning but dropped all day. and will be dropping this weekend until the next big swell hits on monday morning. perfect time for the bodyboarding contest at pipe. i wish there are waves everyday so they can get that 3 day event over and done. then about 300 bodyboarders will go back home. that’s the last contest of the year for pipe/backdoor so it’s time for the patient people like me to get some good waves. i can’t wait. as for tomorrow, i’m dawn patroling somewhere. then when the winds blow onshore, maybe go underwater patrol…. just got to wake up and see. when i was a kid and was looking forward to something the next day, i would sleep early because i thought the next morning would come faster. that’s how i feel now. so goodnight and abc u tomorrow…

drove past diamond head today and the waves looked super fun. lighthouse had like 25 guys out and cliffs only had 5. so i went out to cliffs and had a fun session. i haven’t surfed out there for a while so i forgot how slow that wave was. it took me a couple of waves until i finally slowed down my surfing. then i was just riding the wave and going with the flow….

WCT pro surfer chris ward can’t go to australia for the first WCT contest at snapper rocks due to his pending case. he’s up shit creek and hope he can find a way out of it or he’ll be missing more contests than that….

and went to check on the piggies this evening…. 3 little piggies left so 3 fresh liver sashimi’s…. get the sesame oil and salt ready….
**and last, i was looking for police tickets on internet for the sold out show tomorrow night. i came across this ad. this guy is selling 3 tickets and when i read his ad, i couldn’t stop laughing….. check it out…
THREE POLICE tickets on the aisle Sec.24 Sunday Night !
It’s Valentines Day week-end ! ,
take your wife AND girlfriend to see the Police !
Hard tickets for Sunday 2/17 show.
Seats are on the aisle sec. 22 row K . 109 each. Buy 1 , 2 Or all 3 !

**i’m going to the concert to see who’s sitting in those seats.. haha….