good evening. gosh, had an awesome day today. took the most poundings ever but still alive to talk about it. pulled up to pipe this morning and this is what it looked like…

the waves were 4-6′ with some 8′ sets once in a while. grabbed my 7’0 and jumped in. caught a few pipe waves and in between sets, some of the boys were talking about everybody getting hurt out there these past few days. guys like mark healey, jason shibata, roy powers, freddy patachia, wade tokoro, and many more. then i heard the ambulance siren going and it wasn’t even 8am yet. pretty freaky…. then here comes this 5′ backdoor double up set coming right to me. i took off, pulled into the barrel, and then end shut down and threw me over the falls. my leash wrapped around my 2 ankles and my board was pulling me along the reef for 20′ or so. it felt like somebody tied my ankles up and was dragging me from the back of a truck. i hit the reef on my arms and legs and got the leash rope marks around my two ankles. luckily i didn’t panic or i would have drowned. it was pretty scary…. i caught my next wave in and called it a day….

wanted to kill some time so figured i’d go shoot some empty shore break photos. gosh, it was nuts. actually more nuts than pipe. it was 6′ tall and 10′ wide. i tried to duck dive under a set and the wave picked me up like a rag doll and slammed me into the sand. it almost knocked me out and i could hear every bone in my body crack. my camera blew out of my hand and my 2 fins were hanging by the fin straps. lucky i had a strap on my camera or it would have been history….. imagine konishiki jumping 10′ in the air and landing on you. that’s how heavy the impact was….

when i was paddling in at pipe, i told chigusa i was going to shoot some empty shorebreak waves and nobody was going to be out. she jumped in her car and met there. it was pretty heavy out there and that’s the reason nobody was out when we got there. people break necks and backs out there all the time. but chigusa was charging the whole time and after getting pounded, she came up smiling and saying “tanoshi”, which means “fun” in english. fun? i told her she was crazy… she said “tanoshi” like 5 times after getting pounded and i told her she was crazy 10 times…. chigusa is crazy…. now that’s 11 times….

this is chigusa’s younger sister misako or “mitan”. mitan is following in her older sisters footsteps. she caught some pretty heavy waves too and came up smiling too. i don’t know her too well so i didn’t say “your crazy”. so now i will, “mitan, your crazy”…..

this is maho toda’s wife yumi-san. i remember seeing yumi for the first time at the women’s pipeline bodyboard contest last year. the waves were 10′ solid and yumi was charging. so bodyboarding the shorebreak today was probably fun for her too…..

so meet the 3 crazy bodyboarder chicks…. crazy, crazy, and crazy…. hope your body feels ok when you wake up tomorrow morning. i know mine won’t….
**by the way, got some better photos but will have to save that for later…. check your email….

good morning. 5:45am and the waves are probably going off so i’m out of here. it’s still big and expected to get huge tonight. maybe 20′ with bigger sets… kind of scary when the buoys are broken because it can be 6′ now and 20′ by this afternoon. anyway, got to beat traffic so i’m out of here… have a nice day…
maybe i can get a barrel like this today? i wish…

good evening. i woke up this morning and looked out my window. no clouds in the sky. first time since last year october and i ain’t joking…. i was happy because i knew it was going to be a good day..

went out to the north shore and it was firing. everywhere going off!!!! check out waimea bay…. beauty man….

get this, i called the 596-7873 surf report at 3pm and it said that pipeline was 4-6′. wrong. this is pipe at 12pm and it is 10-12′ and breaking from the second reef. it was bigger than yesterday….

passed by haleiwa around 2pm and it was looking pretty fun. 2-3′ with 8′ sets…. obake sets….

then the same surf report said that town was 1-2′. wrong. i passed by waikiki this afternoon and queen’s was going off!!! perfect right point break with not too many guys out. i couldn’t resist and went to go out to catch a few waves…. this photo is of diamond head. seen some solid 4′ sets and it looked super fun too. nobody knows there’s waves in town so not too many guys were out. tomorrow will be a different story…

and last, wanted to wish sano-san from fuji-gawa a safe flight back to japan and good luck in his surfing future…. ganbatte ne…..