good evening. surf 2x, stand up paddle 1x. i’m beat. it’s 8pm and i just got home from leaving my house at 7am this morning. surfed chest high fun laniakea, checked out some turtles, ate lunch, stand up paddled vland, then shortboarded vland. hit ted’s bakery, and i’m finally home. when we first got to vland, nobody was out. then 2 were out, and it was super fun… i usually don’t surf on days like these but i’m glad i did…..

this is laniakea. 10 years ago, nobody knew there were turtles there. i use to take my japanese friends there to check them out and it was pretty much only us. now days, there are freakin tour busses, limos, tour vans, and every tom, dick and harry stopping there making the worst traffic on the north shore. it’s out of control. and the turtles probably ain’t too happy….

my japanese guests wanted to see turtles so i took them to my secret turtle beach. 10x more turtles than laniakea and no people. see those 2 sleeping on the beach. by the way, i cropped the photo so you can’t find this beach. if this secret beach turns out like the tourist trap at laniakea, i will kill myself….

yeah, i bet this turtle ran away from laniakea to get away from the cameras and tourists. it was just him, and us….

checked out ehukai on the way to vland and it looked fun. surf ehukai with 20 guys? or surf vland with 2? i don’t have to answer that. anyway, i feel pretty dam energetic from being down for so long. i got my full power back and going to be all over this island in the next few days. i’ll be the energizer bunny that keeps going, going, and going…. but for now, the only place i’m going is to sleep. good night….

good morning. 6:30am monday morning. small waves again around the island but my sister said that ehukai beach park was fun yesterday. so i’m going to the north shore and surfing all day. my cold i’ve been fighting for the past 5 days is gone. i’ve been surfing, swimming, diving, cutting grass, and doing all kinds of stuff. it sure beat lying in bed for all those days. now i’m back to 100% so stay away from me because i’m going to be a hyper guy with a lot of energy. haha..[:??????:] have a nice day…

hana, maui is a pretty amazing place. this past summer was my 5th time to maui but my 1st time to the east side, hana. and it couldn’t have been a better day. no wind, sunny skies, and just pure nature. ever been there before? hana was pretty magical and i’m going back there again someday. surf, dive, and just enjoy one of the most beautiful place in the world….

at the end of the road, there is a pretty fun surf spot, a lot of fish, and if your lucky, you’ll see some mermaids….

then after you surf hana, drive 4 hours back to kapalua and eat maui tacos. maui tacos has the best sauces for your taco or burrito. i didn’t know which one to pick with my burrito…

so i tried all…. and it was all good….

good evening. what a long day i had today. you know those long days after you had a long night? the kind of days you just want to go by fast. well, i have days like these once or twice a year. and today was one of those days. i lost my voice and have a headache…. the waves were flat anyway so i didn’t really miss anything…

the UFC fights were pretty good last night. the one i wanted to watch the most was wanderlei silva vs. quinton rampage jackson. two pit bulls in a cage trying to kill each other. all it took is one left hook when one of the dogs went down. quinton rampage jackson KO’s silva in round 1….

then it was off to snappers to see russ and ciara play live. their cover of jason mraz’s “i’m yours” was pretty dam good…. listen to friends playing music, shoot some pool, take over the jukebox, and sing karaoke using pool sticks in a bar that doesn’t even have karaoke. haha… we got pretty nuts and i’m surprised we didn’t get kicked out…

got an email from my friend matsu in hong kong asking me about this photo of kelly slater in the pipe masters. yeah, i remember the commentator saying he saw a fish jump out of the water. that fish happened to be a stingray. and this photos proves it…

when you got dirty water run off from the heavy rains, dead pigs, dogs, rats, and a lot of shit gets swept into the ocean. and when you have a lot of shit in the ocean, even the sea life wants out. kelly’s lucky the sting ray didn’t stick its barb in his ass. anyway, this is a pretty cool kodak moment.
**new north/west swells on the way later this week. hope to start the new year off with a bang. or should i say, barrel….
**PICASSO GUN SOLD!!! PLEASE DON’T EMAIL ME ABOUT IT ANYMORE. THE GUY WHO BOUGHT IS SCORED….