good morning. big waves out on the north shore and still on the way up. pipe looks 6′ and should be getting bigger. got a bunch of guys out already. conditions clean and should be epic as the day goes along. we even got a south swell going. town has some chest high waves at some spots. another awesome day of surfing so get out there and enjoy it….. have a great day…

from thursday to sunday, they set up shop and sell huli huli chicken on the north shore. right next to aoki shave ice, you can smell the chicken cooking and gosh, it smells good. i’ve eaten there a few times and i love it. if you haven’t tried it before, you don’t know what your missing out….

half a chicken with 2 scoops rice for $6? that’s a deal. i usually get that and a homemade lemonade that costs a dollar, with free refills. the shrimp is pretty good too but you can’t beat the chicken. and the best part about it is some of the proceeds go to the church. can’t wait till next thursday….[:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:]

and last, this is chigusa. chigusa is one of japan’s top women’s pro bodyboarder. i’ve known her for a long time and have surfed with her often both in japan and hawaii. does she charge? i think probably the most. a couple of years ago, chigusa rode a 20′ set at waimea bay. that was nuts. and about 5 years ago, i seen her ride this pretty big and crazy wave at a river mouth in japan all the way through the shorebreak. that was more nuts. if chigusa was a guy, she would have some pretty big balls. this is one brave and cool bodyboarder chick….

good evening. gosh, how things change so fast. from rain, wind, and small waves to sun, and perfect surf around the island. now hawaii winter season is looking more like hawaii winter season. and the forecast is looking awesome. back to back to back swells on the way with light tradewinds. and the sun’s back. yeah!!! kind of late but i’ll take it…..

pulled up to off the wall this afternoon and this is the first thing i seen. a freaking 8′ perfect backdoor wave with nobody on it…. gosh, pipe and backdoor was epic. 10′ solid and nuts…. north shore season is in full swing and i’m stoked….

i seen wakita paddling for a wave so i snapped this photo with my cel phone. wakita took off on this 10′ wave, made the drop, and pulled in. sick wave….

went to check sunset beach after on the way to ted’s bakery for a piece of chocolate haupia cream pie. the waves were good and so was the pie….
**had a super fun day with kaori-san, manami-san, and hitomi-san. 3 cool sisters. we snuck into the LOST set and took photos. don’t want to post it because i might get arrested. now i’m probably going to get hooked on that drama too. but gosh, i don’t have time for that…. anyway, wish you three sisters the best in surfing when you get back to japan…. ganbatte ne.[:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:]

and last… get ready all you chick shoppers. NORDSTROM is opening in near the ala moana shopping center march 7th… i’m staying far away from there…. CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFORMATION…..

good morning. 6:45am on this cool monday morning. waves on the north shore in the 2-4′ range but watch out because it’s going to get big really fast. expecting 10′ sets by afternoon. 5 guys are out at pipe now and the conditions look pretty good. a little morning sickness again but should clean up as the day goes along. town got some waves too. chest high at most spots with clean conditions. it should be another great day of surfing. go out and enjoy it….

my friend derek sent me these photos of their latest VW dune buggy cruize. it was a sunday afternoon with fast cars, hot chicks, and heinekens. a lot of heinekens…. check out these car worth over $10,000 a piece…

then after the heinekens kick in, your foot gets heavy and your dune buggy starts going faster and faster. then after driving around sandy’s and makapuu like your in a nintendo game, the honolulu police department gets 911 calls. and when the 911 calls go through, the cops are on it like flies on shit…. busted baby…. then it’s off to court spending money for a lawyer trying to get your ass off heavy fines… is it worth it? heck no… but after a few beers, reality doesn’t set in until the next morning… haha… thanks derek for the photos and let me know when your going to let me test drive your dune buggy. my foot is itchy…. i might go too fast and end up in the water… that would suck yeah…. whoooooop…….