good morning on this windy windy tuesday morning. gosh, it’s so windy and raining hard outside my house right now. i don’t want to go anywhere. the waves on the north shore came up in the 3-5′ range and still on the rise. the conditions are pretty stormy and nobody is out at pipe now. they are on standby for the monster energy pro for a 9am start. i don’t think they have a choice but to run it because the forecast ain’t looking too good. got things to do today so probably go for a session later at diamond head. should be good again. anyway, have a nice day and watch out for things flying around outside…. bye bye

somebody emailed me and asked about nagigia island. it’s a short flight out of nadi international airport in fiji. when i went there, we took the boat from nadi and went to tavarua first on the way out to kandavu island. look up at the photo and you can see where we pulled in to anchor our boat. from our boat, a small dingy shuttled back and forth to the resort. check out the room i stayed in. it was brand new and we were the first ones ever to stay there. out the back is the left called king kong. here is my take on this island. if your looking for an easy wave, your going to the wrong place. king kong’s jacks up and is pretty shallow. so not a good call for beginners. and the winds are blowing all day long so don’t expect mentawai conditions. as for the island, killer. nice little island to hang out but remember to take a lot of books because there is nothing to do. personally, i wouldn’t go back there again because it ain’t a cheap trip and the main point is a left. but to dive, maybe… haha… look how clean the water is. it’s like that everyday and out the back is a really famous diving spot. or if you want to catch big fish, take your fishing pole and a lot of lures because it’s loaded with big fish…. and last, if you go there, expect to drink the most potent kava around. oh, and don’t expect to surf on sunday, even if the waves are going off. sunday is church day and if you surf, the chief will get pissed off and cut your head off… nah. just joking… but you really can’t surf on sundays…. hope that helped….

and last, check out my cute little nephew joshua. this was last year at the pipe masters. gosh how fast kids grow up….

good evening. went to surf lighthouse today with hayato and naoka. the waves were super fun and ripable. overhead and pretty long rights. only had 5 guys out. hayato surfed lani’s yesterday and told me that the waves today at lighthouse was much better than lani’s. gosh, i must have caught over 30 waves and it was so fun. we stayed out for 2 hours, headed to diamond head grill for a mixed plate, and back home for a rest…. the weather finally warmed up today so it’s feeling more like the hawaii i know….

after i seen this photo, i felt bad complaining on how cold hawaii has been. sorry cold people…..[:???:][:???:][:???:]

this is one of the contestants for the transworld magazine model search. if i was the judge, this girl would win. this photo is pretty sick. check out her gangster sign and everything….

wow, had the best dinner tonight. ate nabe with this ponzu akko gave me. it’s called asahi ponzu and oh my gosh… it was so good. i usually use the cheap ponzu they sell in hawaii so it was the first time i tried this one. big difference. in fact, huge difference…. thanks akko….

and last, check out the forecast for the next 5 days in hawaii. and this ain’t including the typhoon winds we’ll be getting too. expecting 30+ mph winds all week..[:??$B!/(B:][:???????????(J\(B:][:??$B!/(B:][:???????????(J\(B:] get out the umbrellas, i’m going diving….

good windy monday morning. waves dropped out on the north shore. 2-3′ and once again, lani’s is the spot. town is waist high and diamond head is probably the best spot. nobody out at pipe, 3 guys out at bowls, and a few at the park. the sun’s out so it’s going to be a beautiful day. get out and enjoy…. aloha….

i did a google search for surfing world magazine today and a link to nagisa island came up. i clicked on it and this photo came out. it was in 1999 when the dove wetsuits team headed over on a boat trip to kandavu island, fiji. i was lucky to go surf this spot that had no name. and was also lucky to be the first ever customers to stay at the nagigia resort on the island fronting this pretty good left. this photo was taken at King Kong’s and not Middle Daku. and we were the ones to name that spot king kong’s. don’t listen to anybody else making that claim because that’s bullshit. on a philippine boat trip 4 years ago, i heard this european saying that they named that spot king kong’s in 2001. sorry guys, we were there in 1999 and the reason that spot was named king kong’s is because kandavu island is where they filmed the classic movie “king kong”. pretty simple. so there it is, the real story…. and there were many other stories on that awesome trip that will just have to keep secret. haha…. the name of the article in surfing world was “kava surf party”. figure it out…. kinsan took that photo. and no, that’s not kelly slater in his white wetsuit. that’s me. kelly seen my awesome white dove wetsuit and had quiksilver copy it. that’s why kelly started wearing white wetsuits in 2000, one year later. haha. that part is just a joke. and after i took that bottom turn, i did a rodeo clown 360 air. haha. another joke. i feel like joking all day today…

this was our boat. check out that dove flag. it’s now hanging on the wall in the dove factory. that’s tokura-san, local fiji surfer ian, me, and imasu-san in the front. kinsan took this photo. another classic trip….

we were getting shuttled back and forth from our paradise island to the boat. it was such a fun trip and everynight was a kava surf party. complete with the most potent kava from kandavu, live fijian music, and a bunch of drunk japanese surfers. haha… here is kinsan, tokura-san, satoshi, and isao at 11pm at night after about 2 kilos of the most potent kava in the world…