Wednesday October9日 2024年

Fresh Hawaiian Island Eggs…..

good morning. 7am on this martin luther king holiday here in hawaii. waves came up a little on the north shore. head high and on the way up through out the day. 3 guys out at pipe and the conditions looks a little bumpy due to the strong winds. town still has some chest high waves everywhere. should be another great day of surfing. south and north swells on the way so stay tuned…. have a nice day…

once in a while, i stop by wahiawa on my way back to town to pick up some fresh eggs. how fresh? right out of the chickens ass fresh…[:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:][:????????$B!/(B???:] this place is called Peterson’s Upland Farm and it’s closed on sundays. please don’t ask me for directions because i can’t explain it to you. i went there so many times already and always get lost, including today. it’s up in the mountain somewhere and wanted to thank the lady walking her dogs for the directions….

local style fresh eggs. super good eaten raw over hot rice in the morning. out goes my cereal this week….

so here it is. hot rice with natto, then mix the egg and pour it all over. so good…. itadakimasu….
***surf report: snow in tokyo, japan so expect a freakin huge ass swell next week on the north shores. will know how big in a couple of days….

Painted on Underwear….


surfed kewalo’s with naoka, chiaki, hayato, and carter. it was chest high and clean. had fun but was kind of cold…. in fact, real cold….

after a cold surf session, eating pho is the best. went with hayato, chiaki, and naoka….

and look at this photo. this is the walkway to check backdoor and off the wall. in a few weeks, this wide walkway will shrink half its size. the house on the left owns the property and they plan to expand their yard so take a last look….

and last, check out this photo my friend sent me of his girlfriend. this is the new fad in new york. painted-on clothes… try not to look too good….

Tow-In Spearfishing….

good morning. had a blast last night at darren tatsuno’s house with friends from all over japan. muramatsu-san and everybody from von-zipper/rlm knows how to have a good time….

never a dull moment…. shohei from sendai, aaron from hawaii, muramatsu-san from chigasaki, and bruddah luiz and brazil grom….. had a great time boys…

it was aaron, derek, and brandon’s birthday party too[:??$B!^(B??????:][:??$B!^(B??????:] that was a pretty sick cake. congratulations boys. many more surfing years to come….
as for the waves today. windy small waves around the island. i’m stoked because i need a break from driving out to the north shore. the long drive, the traffic, and the gas is starting to get to me. i’m staying in town and having a relaxing sunday. if you want to surf, bowls is your best bet in town but got over 15 guys on it already. not too crowded out at the park and there’s still some waist/chest high sets coming in. north shore is 2′ with 4 hungry surfers out at pipe. windy, bumpy, over it… waves coming up tomorrow so stay tuned. hope you have a nice day!!!
**and last, you guys want to see some craziest shit? this is the big wave tow-in surfing of diving. gosh, now i’m amped.. i want to go!!!! thanks craig for sending the clip…. where’s the sashimi?? haha….