good morning. 5:15am monday morning. it’s still early but i got to get out there and surf. 2 more days of light winds before the trades come back so enjoy. the waves look smaller than yesterday but it’s probably going to be fun…. have a nice day…
check out more action from yesterday’s backdoor session….

this chick is from australia and was catching more waves than the guys out there. freaking blue crush man….

peek-a-boo…..

there was this model doing a photo shoot on the beach for this clothing company called “Blue Moon Blue”. what a perfect day for a photo shoot…. oh, wanted to say hi to makoto-san….

and last, this is the reef at backdoor. oh my gosh!!! i hit it once today and luckily i didn’t get stuck in a crack… it’s only knee deep so better be careful….

good evening. today was the best day of the whole winter season that started back in october. it was sunny, the water was clean, the waves were clean, no winds, and a lot of happy faces…. i pulled up to backdoor at 7:20am, grabbed my board and was out there. i got another pretty sick barrel today. even better than yesterday so i was stoked. it got crowded after a while so i went in and grabbed my camera. check out these photos….. these ARE NOT the best shots. i’m sending those in to a magazine so you will have to wait.. gomen ne…

this is tony moniz. tony is the reason why i’m surfing the north shore. if i didn’t meet him back in the 80’s, i would be still surfing diamond head everyday…. thanks tony….

this kid is 11 years old and from japan. i think he’s the youngest japanese surfer to get barreled at backdoor. shinpei is taking care of him so he’s in good hands. expect this kid to blow up….

gosh, the kids are getting younger and younger. these 3 groms don’t know how lucky they are to come to hawaii and surf the north shore while their classmates are in japan playing jun ken po….

this is ushikoshi. he’s been here for a while finally got some sun and good surf today….

shinpei can surf from knee high beach breaks in japan to 25′ waimea bay. keep an eye on him….

japanese surfers always hang out on the beach after they surf. they seemed happy and i hope they were because today was the best day of the season so far. pro surfers matchi, ushikoshi, shimpei, and yukio. see you guys tomorrow…..

and last, the traffic is crazy out on the north shore. this is about 3pm on the way out of haleiwa today. this is by the stoplight and it’s stop and go all the way past chun’s reef….. be patient because it will take over an hour to move 2 miles….
**anyway, super tired and sunburned so i’m going to sleep now. it’s only 8pm but lights out…. more photos from backdoor tomorrow morning….

good sunday morning. 5:45am and i’m out of here. it’s overcast and the waves don’t look that good. but i’m up already so i’m going surfing…. looks 2-3′ and still pitch dark outside. solid north/west swell expected thursday with light winds. gosh, after getting barreled yesterday, i want more. i went to sleep last night with a big smile on my face. hope that’s the case again tonight. have a nice day….

i went with carter to the gun range in hawaii kai 8 years or so ago. it was my first time shooting a target at 100 yards away. i used his 9mm and this was my target paper. this is not a bb gun, it’s a real gun. so next time you drop in, you might get a 9mm round up your butt…. haha… just joking. maybe just in your foot….

the new surf1st calendar just came out. it’s pretty sick… this is shinpei horiguchi on the cover taking off on a pretty sick ass wave at waimea bay. i tell all my friends in hawaii that shinpei charges and here’s the proof. give him a few more years and i think he will get invited to the eddie aikau at waimea. if he doesn’t, it’s because quiksilver is scared.. because shinpei can win it….

and last, heineken came out with a new marketing slogan. “Keep Hawaii Green”…. that’s some good marketing because all you see now days are green cans and bottles. especially at the UH football games…. check out the new mini-kegs they came out with. $18 for 5 liters of draft beer in one can. i tried one the other night and it’s pretty dam good….