good evening. what a nice day it was today. clear water, sunny skies, and no traffic… i love it… went out to the north shore this morning. surfed lani’s and it was super fun and not that crowded. check out some photos….

this is ryota, shin-san, and shun in the water at lani’s today. shin-san came to hawaii yesterday and today was his first ever surf on the north shore of hawaii. surfing the north shore can bring out a big smile…. just another happy day….

shun and ryota surfed off-the-wall with matchi this morning. then came to lani’s and surfed with shin-san and i at lani’s. then the moniz kids came by to surf so they went out to lani’s again. three sessions and it wasn’t even lunch time yet. these kids got a lot of energy. here they are going out to lani’s the hard core way. or should i say, seth’s way….

as they got to the point, shun started yelling “turtle”… the kids saw 2 turtles swimming in the tide pool right in front of them….

we went to check it out and this is what they saw. green sea turtles. this one was lying on a rock sleeping and when seth woke him up, he swam in the water and out to sea….

and last. i was so lucky to stick my camera in my pocket at lani’s. check this out!! this is one of the best photos i’ve ever taken. look good and you can see a double rainbow. only in hawaii!! this is my new screen saver….
**the haleiwa contest was cancelled today because it was too small. the waves are coming up so it’s probably a go tomorrow morning. 2 north/west swells are on the way and so are the gusty trade winds again…. enjoy these beautiful hawaiian tropical days…. good night….

good morning. 6:45am on this chilly saturday morning. today, the waves are as small as it gets. it’s pretty much flat around the island. nobody out in the water in town, and nobody out at pipe or laniakea. it’s been years since i seen the waves this small all around the island. the conditions are clean and looking good for diving. but christmas is coming up so too many things going on. probably have to put diving on the side until next year but hope i can sneak one more in this year. well, get ready for traffic where ever you go today. everybody’s out on the road shopping so it’s been pretty crazy. i’m going surfing…. have a nice day….

did you know that today is winter solstice day? what is that? winter solstice is the beginning of the winter in the northern hemisphere and the beginning of the summer in the summer hemisphere. so today’s officially winter in hawaii and summer in places like indonesia and australia. trippy yeah? before i started traveling, i thought it was summer everywhere around the world everyday…. so today will be the shortest day of the year. that’s why it’s pitch dark here in hawaii right after 6pm. and it means longer nights for the party people…. and for surfers, longer days… so go out and enjoy our official first day of winter… aloha…

good evening. went to the north shore this morning and everywhere was packed…. it’s winter holiday here in hawaii and seems like nobody is working these days. everybody is surfing…

this was lani’s about 9am. there were about 60 surfers out, mostly longboarders, and no parking. the waves looked pretty fun but no way i was going out there… so i took shun and ryota to a secret spot. haven’t surfed there in a while and almost forgot about it. nobody was out so we were lucky. it’s a left break with current and kind of hard to lineup. i had the two boys paddle out by themselves because i wanted to see if they could figure out the spot. after 5 minutes, they were catching all the good waves. gosh, these kids have pretty good wave knowledge. i know surfers my age who have been surfing for 20 years that get lost out there. it’s a hard wave but the kids made it look easy… it was double overhead for them and they were charging hard….

shun and ryota don’t only get barreled in the water, here they are getting barreled at ted’s bakery…

came back to town after lunch and oh my gosh, it was so beautiful…. this is what paradise is all about….

and this is not paradise. this is what’s going on in palestine… those aren’t termite eaten wood, those are bullet holes in the cement building…. peace guys….