good morning. small waves in town with perfect conditions. no wind right now so diamond head looking best. got things to do and places to go so better start moving. have a nice day…

7 days and counting. yeah, by next week, i’m going to be boarding this crazy ass big yacht in timor, indonesia. but first, i got to fly to japan, grab all my surfboards and diving gear, then fly to dempasar for an overnight layover, then fly to timor to board the boat. that takes a few days but once you step foot on this yacht, the cell phones turn off, the computer stays in the bag, and it’s all about you and the ocean. the first thing i’m going to do is run to the front, stand on the little wooden board, and do the titanic. yeah, let the wind blow in my face heading out to sea taking deep breaths of the freshest air in the indian ocean. gosh, i need this trip really bad…..

then i’m going to head to some little village, choose a little pig, and eat the best suckling pig the world has to offer. they call it “Babi Guling”….

good evening. what a day today. pulled up at pipeline before 6am and it was pitch dark. but you know what? the parking was full, boards were out, and everybody showed up. i’d say 200 plus, a couple of boats, couple of jet skis, and a beautiful morning. we formed a pretty big circle and you could just feel how lester touched every single person there. it was pretty amazing… as lester’s brother said “Lester loved everybody”…. that says it all…. i’m going to miss lester answering his cell phone in the lineup, sharing waves, and that big smile…..

as i was sitting in the lineup at pipe this morning, i was checking out the reef. it was super shallow and you could see all the caves and rocks. i was thinking about if the japanese surfers that surf pipe know what lies below them. i was swimming out at 10-15′ pipe last winter and was pretty much standing on the reef shooting photos. then i seen kamogawa’s yukio ogawa take off on a bomb, bottom turn, and pull into this closeout. i thought he was nuts. and still do. this year, i’m going to think about it twice before pulling into some monster closeout like this….
**and last, yesterday was the 7th anniversary of 9/11. where were you? i was sleeping when my friend bobby woke me up and told me to turn on the tv. right as i turned it on, the second airplane went into the second tower. i thought it was a dream. and still do….

Diving Ikitai na…..