good evening. boy, what a difference in the weather. back to our paradise weather pattern. took a drive out to the east side early this morning…

it’s been a while since i seen clear skies. i kind of got excited… had my board and spear in the car so either way, i was going to get wet….

there was this little perfect chest high left breaking off that island. if you live here, you know where that is. if you don’t, sorry, can’t say where it is…

surf/dive. dive/surf. or what the heck, do both. that’s what i did this morning. only in hawaii… got some dinner tonight so it’s all good…

came back home and stopped by the gas station. then this truck pulled in with a wild pig on the back…

these two hunters with their dogs went up the mountain near my house and caught this pig. i’d say 100lbs or so. enough kalua pig for a big party….

for those of you who don’t know how people hunt in hawaii. here’s one way. raise some dogs, let them loose in the mountains, they find the pig and trap it, then the hunter goes with the knife and stabs the heart. kind of sick but that’s the way they do it here. or another way is to take a bow and arrow and shoot it. both ways work. this is part of the hawaiian culture here. the more i think of it, kalua is one lucky pig….

and last, the 2007 honolulu marathon and fireworks start tomorrow at 5am. don’t go near the course or you will regret it. 27,000 runners so stay away. i know a lot of people running it this year and now i kind of want to run it too. maybe my goal for next year? i have to talk to my knees about it first….. anyway, for all of those running the marathon, ganbatte ne!!! i’ll be cheering you on from my bed… goodnight….

good morning. still strong south/west winds making junky conditions. east side was looking clean yesterday so might go surf or dive. 5:45a and i’m out of here… have a nice day…
**i ordered some things online the other day. it’s my early christmas present to myself. haha. it finally came today and i’m stoked…

santa told me i have to wait until christmas to open it up. i’ll be a good boy and wait… not….

get this, i ordered it from spain and check out this route it took in the last 3 days. spain, belgium, germany, united kingdom, ohio, california, ohio, and finally hawaii. i was tracking it everyday like a little kid waiting for his toy. thanks DHL….
**the other day, i was working with makoto-san. he’s a coordinator for tv shows, photo shoots, and other things. he speaks perfect japanese and english. and he surfs. makato-san was super professional and really easy to work with. i had a lot of fun..

check out his website called ACCY.BIZ….
and check out MAKOTO-SAN’S BLOG too….

good evening. rain rain go away!! gosh, you’ve been here so long. just go away… wow, am i talking to the rain? this wet dark weather is making me crazy. and probably making a lot of other people crazy too. imagine saving months and months of salary to take your dream surf trip to hawaii’s north shore? and when you get there, it’s raining everyday. and to make things worst, the waves suck. and to make things moreworst, the electricity goes out for 2 days and there is nothing to do. if you came here 2 weeks ago, you must be bumming right now. i’m starting to go crazy with this weather and i can just imagine how the tourists are feeling. drove out to the east side today because it’s the only side the water is semi-clean. i saw a japanese couple walking in the rain along sandy beach all soaked. i felt sorry for them….

once passed makapuu, the water got clean and the winds were off-shore. 30mph + but off-shore. it was raining pretty hard that you could barely see rabbit island…

then the sun came out for 15 minutes and looked like the hawaii i’m use to seeing. makapuu shorebreak was going off. if i was a bodyboarder, i would be in heaven. bodysurfed one wave and almost broke my neck. not a good call. started to rain again shortly after and is still raining now. ugly yucky day….

this is how hawaii supposed to look like. this is waimea bay last summer. it don’t look anything like this right now and will take a while for the brown water to clean up. i can’t wait for the sun to come back out…
**tokura-san and the crew just got back from pohnpei, micronesia. check out some of the photos….

going surfing…. i think i’ve been in this same river. went there 10 years or so ago. all i remember was “rain, rain, and rain”… pohnpei is supposed to be one of the wettest places in the world. beautiful, but wet….

tokura-san told me they have the perfect setup. japanese food everyday even with a japanese menu. sounds so oishi….

and he told me the waves were good and barreling. i’m jealous… when i went there, the only thing that was barreling was my shower….

this is tokura-san and hiromichi-san. two great surfers. heard they had a great time surfing awesome waves. more photos coming later….