good evening. surfed my ass off again. pulled up to pipe/backdoor this morning and no too many guys were out. seen wade tokoro out there ripping as usual. it was kind of small but still super clean and fun. it was nao’s first time out there and she caught more waves than me again. after an hour, we paddled over to ehukai and it was packed. caught one wave and was over it. the south/west winds came and it was over….

it was back into town to one of my favorite chinese plate lunch restaurant. it’s called “Duck Lee” and is in the corner of market city. right next to fun factory. the roast pork there is the best on the island…

just ask nao….

for some reason, there were a lot of police out there today with speed guns. seen a couple on the way out to the north shore this morning. and this afternoon, these guys were down my street. i seen them so i took a photo of them. one of the cops seen me take the photo and he looked super pissed. looked like he was going to get in his car and come after me but changed his mind. can i get a ticket for that? don’t think so…. but please drive safe and slow or else you will get caught…. remember that 30 miles over the speed limit gets you a free night in jail….

went to surf diamond head this evening. it looked like crap from the top but when we got in the water, it was super fun. caught a lot of waves and seen a lot of airplanes flying into the airport. with these south/west winds, all the airplanes fly in this way instead of from the west side. i must have seen 50 or so go by. made me want to get on one and go somewhere. i think i need a vacation again…. haha…

and last. want the best dam shave ice in hawaii? go to waiola shave ice in town. order the rainbow shave ice with ice cream and azuki beans. for 3 bucks, it will make your day…..

good morning. 6:15am. town is small and onshore. south winds blowing and north shore is the spot to be. EPIC conditions. i’m out of hea… have a nice day…

i’ve been seeing this a lot. the beautiful drive to the north shore. making 2 runs out there today. surf surf surf…. let’s go!!

good evening. gosh, the waves were good all over the island today…. winter season is here!! sunburned, red eyes, rubber arms, surfed out, and black skin. that’s me… i haven’t been surfing so much in my whole lifetime. surfed 5 hours yesterday and 4 hours today. more waves on the way. all i have to say is, oh my gosh…

check this photo from surfline. this was the first good day at pipe/backdoor. and this was nov. 28th. you think march and april will have good pipe days too? i think so….

drove by diamond head this morning. the waves were good again. little smaller than yesterday and much more crowded…. but still epic for november…

and check out lighthouse. this was 8am. everywhere in town was head high and perfect. hope you got some good waves today because i sure did…

pulled up to haleiwa around 2:30pm. watched it for a while and it looked 3′ or so. grabbed my small board to go and get a few. as i got out, some sets started to roll in. shit, the waves were pretty big. solid 6′ with maybe bigger sets. managed to get a few waves all across. i’m feeling pretty good at this point in the winter season. kind of surfed out but still want more. can’t wait till tomorrow morning because the north shore is going to be going off again. sleeping at 8pm. goodnight….

this was the other night at chucky cheeses. seth, josh, and kelia racing….

and last, this is colt. he’s the man right now. when everybody rushed the field at last weeks game, somebody tried to steal his helmet right out of his hand. i wonder how much that would have been worth on ebay? anyway, a couple other football players got their helmets ripped off. that really sucks because it just ruins it for everybody. now they are going to make it much harder for people to get on the field. so a couple of dummies ruined it for 50,000 fans… please return the helmets….
***and last, check out nao’s interview in the new surfing world magazine that came out today…