good evening. gosh, how was that thunder and lightning lastnight and this morning. kind of scary. took a pass by diamond head and oh my gosh, the waves were going off!!! absolutely no one out. i’ve never ever in my lifetime seen not even one surfer in the water from kaiko’s to lighthouse. there were two reasons. the lightning, and nobody knew about this south swell. so even i was lucky…

we walked down to the beach and sat down to check the waves. right on the side was this hawaiian monk seal hanging out. he scared the shit out of me. took this snap and went in for a surf. came back out at 11:30am and he was still there….

surfed cliffs with 2 guys out. then paddled down to lighthouse and had it to ourselves. overhead and perfect. score baby….

then we went back this afternoon and this monk seal was still here in the exact same spot. it walked up to it and took this snap. he’s kind of cute. we surfed for 2 hours, came back in at 4:30pm and he was still there. i bet if you go there tomorrow morning, he’ll still be there.. but just don’t touch or distrub him. i made a few wonk!! wonk!! noises and he didn’t seem too happy about that… he gave me the same kind of look a girl gave me in a bar after i spilled my drink on her…
anyway, got 2 solid round in. more surf all over the place. north, south, east, and west. maybe the eddie aikau this saturday? check back…. goodnight….

good morning. 6:15 on this raining dark wednesday morning. gosh what a change from yesterday. today is dark and the waves look junky everywhere. the north shore is 4-6′ and coming up. expect 10-12′ by this afternoon. the conditions are nothing like yesterday. got a little morning sickness to the waves and weird winds already. it might clean up but just have to see. town has a little south swell. chest high at diamond head with bumpy conditions. today is the kind of day you have to look for waves. the normal spots aren’t good so got to hit those secret spots. that’s where i’m going to check right now. have a nice wet day….

want to know how good the waves were yesterday? check out sunset. i took this around 11am when the roxy pro was going on. megan abubo was the man… oh, i mean the woman… she was killing the waves and made me feel grateful for quitting contests. she would have whipped my ass out there…. hope she wins the triple crown…. go megan….

we went to chucky cheeses last night to celebrate nao’s birthday. had a blast. i think i had the most fun in there. and making the most noise… haha…

the salad bar is the best. my favorite in hawaii. here’s kelia and alyssa loading up the one trip salad bowl….

there’s this dancing machine in there. you have to follow the screen and make the right dance steps. the girls were ok. they are just lucky i didn’t grease my hair back and put on my dancing shoes… i taught john travolta in saturday night fever how how to dance… just ask my high school friends. haha…. here’s julie, kelia, and birthday girl nao…

then kelia and alyssa tried. and to think, i use to go to this exact same place back in the days for high school dances. it use to be called “showbiz pizza”. do you remember? september? …..
***just wanted to congratulate josh moniz for getting 4th in the rell sun menehune contest last weekend. and also wanted to congratulate seth moniz for getting 2nd in his division getting 1st the longboard division. good job boys…

***they are expecting to finish the roxy pro today. and hold some heats in the o’neill world cup of surfing. check out the live steam by CLICKING HERE….

good evening. what a super super duper day of surfing. left early this morning and and pulled up to off the wall. this is what it looked like….

this was at 7:30am. off the wall had solid 5′ sets and some super barrels. backdoor was a little smaller and not too many guys out. the sand is finally off the beach and the waves are finally barreling…. paddled out to backdoor and had the adrenaline rush. felt like making do do. i don’t know if it was the exciting feeling? or the nervous feeling? it was my first surf of the season out there and it always happens… but after my first wave, it all went away. nao was waiting patiently on the beach so after a few waves, i went in, jumped in the car, and headed straight to the spot. 3-5′ V-land. yeah, v-land was going off!! 10 out of a 10 as far as condition and size. got a few barrels and nao was the only one surfing the inside bowl. i don’t think she know’s how lucky she was. where was everybody today?? and yes, nao caught more waves than me again….

after our awesome session, took nao to watch a few heats at the roxy pro at sunset. the waves were pretty good and the girls were ripping!!! in a few years, nao will be in this contest for sure….

7/11/27 11:27….. trippy…

it started raining so we were about to come back to town. asked nao if she wanted to surf. she said yes! so took a drive by haleiwa and oh my gosh…. it was going offfff…… 4-6′ perfect off the point and only a few guys out. no wind, no crowd, and most important, no current. jumped in to get a few but my few was fewer than nao’s. once again, she caught more waves than me. this is what i have to say about surfing. the only way to get better is to surf more by catching a lot of waves. nao came 1 week ago and her surfing level went up 2 notches. she must have caught more than 50 waves today on the north shore at the most crowded time of the year. i thought i caught a lot of waves…. oh well… but yeah, v-land in the morning, then haleiwa in the afternoon were the places to be…. sorry you missed it….

today is nao’s birthday. she is 15 years old now. kelia was calling me all day to ask when we were coming back to town. the girls wanted to hang out so dropped them off at kahala mall. happy birthday nao!!!

and wanted to wish kenji sahara a happy birthday too…. your shot of jacksan will be waiting for you in hawaii. see ya soon…

came home today and check my email. got this from gordinho. this was my first wave i caught this morning at backdoor. barreled baby!!!! so stoked!!! a great way to start off the season. getting barreled is so dam addicting. once you get one, you just want more and more. i can’t wait till tomorrow…. thanks gordinho….