good evening. gosh, what a long day of doing nothing but sleeping. waves kind of windy and being that it’s sunday, i took a break. tomorrow is my offical start of this winter season. i’m going to surf everyday and get back to my routine. had a blast last night. i left my house pretty grouchy because i was going to miss the end of game 3 of the world series, and the uh football game. i had no idea where we were going but the next thing you know, holli rolls up with a limosine. the door opens and the red carpet rolled out. once again, one of holli’s surprises. she told me that we were celebrating candace’s birthday, russ and yoshika’s wedding, and my birthday too. i was pretty stoked. but still a litte pissed about my games i was missing…..

this is inside our limosine. complete with champane….. kanpai…..

then the limo pulls up to govanni pastrami. yeah!! a sports bar!!!! this is when i was stoked. there were big tv screens all over with the world series game going on along with the start of the uh football game. thanks holli, your the best…..

and if holli puts something together, she goes all the way. we had the full uh football tshirts, glow sticks, flags, and even footballs. by the way, uh won, and the red sox won too. it was a good night of sports for me. thanks holli, your the best….

we all headed back to holli’s hotel suite after the game. just to prepare for our waikiki bar hopping adventure. and oh what an adventure it was. champane, beer, jacksan, and tequila. i don’t even know how i got home. anyway, these are my friends. wanted to say happy birthday to candace, and congratulations to russ and yoshika on the start of their new life together. and thanks to john and kristie for putting your freaking fingers in my face all night. i had a blast and can’t wait to see you guys again… thanks holli, your the best….
**see that football russ is holding. we were walking around waikiki throwing that ball all over to each other. i was even running out for passes. even in the hotel lobby. glad we didn’t get arrested. it’s all about uh football fever!!!! go warriors!!! and dam, where did my football go????
**and congratulations to the Boston Red Sox…. they just won the world series!!! yeah!!! good night!!!

good sunday morning. had a rough night last night. had a blast but it was rough. red sox won, uh warriors won. waves in town bowls looks good again. 12 guys out as of 9am. i’m going back to sleep. goodnight…
picture this, on vacation in another country, going out to dinner in a nice restaurant with a bunch of guys, and hearing this song every single night in every single restaurant we ate in. i actually started feeling lonely…. and picture this, back to hawaii a week later and this song is in my head 24 hours a day. that sucks….
now this is more like it…..
TAKE ME DOWN TO THE PARADISE CITY WHERE THE GRASS IS GREEN AND THE GIRLS ARE PRETTY!!!

good evening. gosh, how’s the world series? and how’s daisuke’s pitching? it’s 6-0 now and i think they will win. well, i hope so. i have a dinner tonight so i will miss the rest of the game. and also miss uh warriors football game tonight too. gosh, my friend holli must be pretty important. if something nuts happens in these 2 games, i won’t be able to forgive her…. haha…
hey, surfed the same spot as yesterday. only today was much better. it was 3′ solid and going off. perfect rights and lefts again. and only a few guys out. i didn’t expect to surf anything overhead so i didn’t even check the waves before i paddled out. i took out my 5’10 minami bullet with no leash and when i got to the lineup, i couldn’t believe that the swell came in right before my eyes. got so many good waves so i’m really happy. heard more swells on the way. stoked… oh, the spot i surfed was “bowls”…. see you out there tomorrow….
i grew up in hawaii kai and right around the corner is the heaviest cliff dive in hawaii. this is called spitting caves. you time the wave so you jump when a wave breaks into the cave. then it spits at you. if you time it right, you will have the thrill of your life. if you time it wrong, you will have to be scraped off the reef with a shovel. and jumping is the easy part. climbing back off the rocks is another risk. so many people die here every year so i wouldn’t recommend it. we use to jump off here when we were kids and i will never do it again. i like my life too much…

and wanted to thank naoka for sending me this photo of japan today. typhoon 20 swell in shonan. wish i were there…. but then again, glad to be home…. catch a good one for me….. doomo desu….