Wednesday October2日 2024年

Dive/Surf in Shizuoka….

good evening everybody. gosh, what a super cool day it was today. the barrels clinic went off and so did the waves and competitors. the waves were perfect waist/chest high and everybody was surfing good. it’s cool to see the smiles on everybody’s faces and the stoke they have on surfing. i took some photos but too dam tired to even take the card out of my camera so your going to have to wait a few days. and yes, there was a huge barbecue after and that was super fun too. there’s been a barbecue almost every day here. last night, makaki made the meanest sashimi platter. ishidai, sazaie, and lobster sashimi. not too mention all the meat and stuff. my stomach if full, my body smells like a barbecue, and i’m tired. typhoon 9 is on the way and expect the waves to get huge real fast. maybe tomorrow? maybe the day after? but yes, it’s going to be big and epic. see you in the barrel…. goodnight….

oh, check out this cool looking house i seen in the country side. i wouldn’t mind living in one of these. must have some history. and probably some ghosts too yeah? never mind….

Country Style….


the rice fields are so awesome here in japan. so green and alive….

when ever i go for a long drive, i just look out of the window and just space out. it’s just so beautiful….

stopped by this little restaurant near a lake in kyoto. they had a pan fried ginger/pork lunch special. all this cost only $7. oh my gosh!!!!

can you smell it??? the pork melted in my mouth……

The 6 Little Pigs…..

good evening. got on a 2 hour train ride down to shizuoka. went for a dive but the water was really rough and dirty. we managed to get some food. photos coming later. gosh, it’s so cool to have surfer/diver friends all over japan. waves or no waves, we still can have fun. just wanted to say to all you surfers out there that you should get into freediving. it’s the best training for your surfing and it puts food on the table. the fish you catch yourself is the bestest tasting fish in the world. every single time. i just can’t get enough….. tomorrow is the barrels clinic. the waves should be coming up so it should be an epic fun day. see you there…. goodnight….

craig sako just sent me these photo of his new family. 8 fresh newborn piglets. if you want one, he’ll probably give you one. just so long as you don’t eat it. thanks for the photo craig. kalua was once a cute little piglet too. but now, he’s a cute big fat pig….. oink oink….

kelia got an interview on surfline.com. some more photos in freesurf mag. and another poster shot for the waihine classic in california. this girl is blowing up…. yeah sis…

and last. this is taiji. this is where the dolphin killings will take place starting next month. pulling up there last week was pretty weird. i can’t even describe how i was feeling. after watching the video of the blood in that same bay, it was trippy seeing it so peaceful and so beautiful. there’s 2 sides to the story and i’ll get to that sometime when i have time to sit down and really think about it. much more about this topic coming…..